Chez Noonie

Sweet: Lemon Tart

2011-11-23T23:13:00.007-05:00

Every year I try something new for the Thanksgiving holiday. You know, to keep myself sharp and on edge. Maybe even show off a little. But this year all the knives in Chez Noonie's mental toolbox were a little dull, and my plans went awry.

I had planned for a fabulous, complicated 'Lemon Chocolate Ganache Tart', from one of my favorite cookbooks of all time, Luscious Lemon Desserts by Lori Longbotham. I know, a lot of alliteration, but worth the tongue twisting. I have been using this book for years, as it is predicated on two of my favorite things in the world: dessert and lemons. The former speaks for itself. The latter, well just take a look at the Chez Noonie citrus decor and you kind of get the picture.

Lemons are a great choice for Thanksgiving, when it is hard to find fresh fruit and people are finishing a heavy, generally somewhat bland meal. The occasion calls for something bright and fresh to cleanse the palate and lift the spirit. Unfortunately for me, the recipe I wanted to use was a bit complicated, involved rolling out dough (which I had over processed - oops), needed to be executed over several one hour increments, and by the time I realized it was not happening, I was in great need of a hug sprinkled with valium.

Anyway, spilt milk aside I still needed a desert for the holiday. And then I remembered that Ms. Longbothom includes a recipe entitled 'The Perfect Lemon Tart'. Now this is a stand by; I bring to occasions, serve it for guests at home, and bake it when my husband needs a quick pick me up. It is easy to make, looks gorgeous, and the taste is over the top lemony and delicious. And fortunately, I had all the ingredients on hand. So this year, an old stand by is about to become a new tradition, as I have decided to literally make the best of things and celebrate in comfortable style.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Enjoy every bite.

Ingredients

1/2 cup unsalted butter

2 tbsp finely grated lemon zest

1 3/4 cups all purpose flour

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

2 pinches of salt

6 large eggs

1 cup fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup heavy cream

Confectioners sugar for dusting

Method

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Have ready an 11-inch tart pan with a removable bottom.
Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat. Ad 1 tbsp of the zest and let stand for five minutes.
Whisk together flour, 1/4 cup of sugar, and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Finely stream in the butter mixture and mix with a fork until it comes together. Transfer mixture to the tart pan and press it in with your fingers until evenly distributed. Bake for 20 minutes or until crust is light golden brown.
Process the remaining sugar and zest in a food processor until zest is finely ground.
Whisk together the eggs, sugar mixture, lemon juice, and another pinch of salt in a separate bowl.
Beat cream with a mixer on medium-high until soft peaks form. Fold into egg mixture gently, until just blended.
Place a baking sheet in the oven Place tart pan on top and pour the filling in the still warm crust. Bake 20 - 30 minutes, until the filling is just set in the center. Remove and cool on a rack.
When cooled and just before serving, sift confectioners sugar on top and slice into wedges to serve.

Savory: Braised Onions

2011-11-19T16:51:00.006-05:00

Pearl onions are one of those things you either love or hate - not a lot of middle ground here. I personally do not prefer them, but my husband does and I do prefer him. So come Autumn, when they are at their most fresh and delicious peak, I always pick out a few bags and bring them home with me.

Now, the tricky part about pearl onions is prepping them. Teeny tiny onions with thin papery skins can make one bitchy chef. I advise buying them fresh and already peeled or purchasing the frozen brands which are also pre-peeled. If not, swallow a valium and have at it - plan on adding an extra 20 - 30 minutes to cooking time. Basically you cut an 'x' in each onion, blanch them for 1 minute, let them cool, and peel away.

This recipe comes from the back of the Trader Joe's fresh peeled onions I picked up this week. It is a quick recipe, and despite my prejudice, kind of tasty. Enjoy every bite.

Ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil

6 oz pearl onions, peeled

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 - 1 and 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken broth (I used vegetable)

Salt and pepper to taste

1 pat of butter

Sprig of fresh thyme

Method

Place oil in medium skillet and heat on medium. Add onions and saute until just brown, approximately 10 minutes.
Add vinegar and continue to saute until sauce becomes a rich brown.
Add broth to cover the onions halfway. Stir to incorporate. Bring to a simmer.
Partly cover pan and lower heat. Continue to simmer and braise for 15 - 20 minutes.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
Add butter and thyme; stir until incorporated. Remove from heat and serve.

Savory: Triple pepper stuffed peppers

2011-09-03T21:48:00.010-04:00

I have a problem with ordering online. That is to say, I have some sort of deficiency that inevitably causes me to order more than what I need by accidentally entering the wrong quantity. Usually I just make the best of it, like the time I ordered two 5 lb briskets for the holidays and ended up reorganizing my entire freezer to manage them. That year, we had brisket two ways; one stove top, one oven braised, both delicious.

Well, recently I started ordering spices online, which has been going pretty well. I order whole spices whenever I can, as they keep longer and taste better when freshly ground. These you have to buy in bulk, so my poor and addled husband has adjusted to the site of 1 lb bags of peppercorns and cinnamon sticks.

But there are somethings that cannot be purchased like that, things that are only available pre-ground. Like smoked paprika, a household staple. I love it - it adds this mysterious, deep, rich flavor to everything, not to mention a gorgeous crimson hue. I put it in everything; paella, mayonnaise, deviled eggs, you name it. So when I ordered it I thought I would be fine. I chose 1 as the quantity, pressed the button, and waited patiently for it to arrive.

The box seemed a little bigger than I would have expected. Can you guess why? Because I ordered an 8 oz bottle, which is more than 4 times the amount of a normal spice jar. Yes, 4 times the amount - I mean I like smoked paprika and all, but this definitely presents a challenge.

Anyway, I panicked a little and started to fret about what I was going to do with all of it, and so I got to thinking about recipes with smoked paprika. Then I remembered that paprika comes from peppers, and bell peppers are so very in season at the moment, and that I like cracked pepper, and to make a long story short, the triple pepper stuffed pepper was born.

This is a festive looking recipe, and one the feeds a crowd. Use different colored peppers for contrast, and serve hot. Enjoy every bite.

Triple Pepper Stuffed Peppers

Ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil

one large yellow onion, chopped small

1 tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp pepper (cracked)

4 cloves of garlic, minced

2 tbsp of smoked paprika

2 yukon gold potatoes, chopped small

1 lb of chopped meat (beef or turkey will work)

6 bell peppers, cut in half and seeded

Method

Preheat the oven o 400 degrees.
Warm oil on medium/high heat. Add onions, salt and pepper, and heat for 5 minutes.
Add potatoes. Cook for 5 minutes.
Add garlic, paprika, and beef and cook for 5 minutes. Once finished, set the pot aside, away from heat.
Place peppers up on a greased pan. Fill each with 3 - 4 tbsp of the meat mixture.
Place in oven for 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

Images of Martha's Vineyard Farms

2011-08-22T23:51:00.016-04:00

I ask you, is this not the most resplendent, ugliest tomato you have ever seen? Very tasty too :) I love the farmer's stands here on Martha's Vineyard, and I especially love finding beauty in the beasts.

Most of these were taken at Morning Glory Farm, one of my favorite haunts here on the island. To get there using my GPS, you need to go off road. See?

That was as good as it got all morning - my mud flaps were crud flaps by the time I plowed through. Did I mention it poured the night before? But that is dedication my friends, and all part of the adventure.

Once I arrived, I had to remind myself to take pictures as I was so distracted by the fabulous finds and mouth watering sites. Here are a few lovelies for your viewing pleasure.

Enjoy every bite.

Savory: Grilled Chicken with Cilantro & Lime Marinade

2011-08-19T18:25:00.019-04:00

We are on vacation in lovely Martha's Vineyard, home of endless island pleasures. Everywhere you look is picturesque as a postcard. Shallow lagoons house wading young children while the older kids and grown ups sun on the stunning shores of the open ocean. Flowers are everywhere, along with friendlier than usual bees, who remind me of the squirrels back in Hoboken who are simply unafraid, unthreatened by the human company they keep. Backroads lead to quiet ponds all within walking distance to heaven on earth ice cream shops. There is a quiet rhythm to the island, one driven by chirping birds and slamming screen doors and bikes switching gears. I love the way this cadence takes over as soon as we drive off the ferry that brings us from the mainland. I love this island, period.

And of course, it being my vacation after all, I love to cook. We rent a beat up old house with an tiny galley kitchen and ancient supporting utensils. I beat my eggs with one of those hand beaters from the 60's, you know the kind with two beaters and a handle you crank as fast as you can. Best eggs ever. There is a milk glass citrus reamer that squeezes oranges like a lusty sailor. The knives are antiquated, serrated, and dull. I used to pack my own wares, but over the years have come to enjoy being resourceful and managing on my own (although I usually buy one or two things from the home goods store to leave behind - a thank you gift to our hosts).

MV is full of terrific farms and farm stores scattered throughout the island. Everything is fresh picked or slaughtered, and this culture has persisted on the island long before local became fashionable. Corn is piled up everywhere. Fresh peaches and blueberries are swollen with just the right ripeness. Herbs and lettuces make heavenly salads and then some. Each year I bring one or two cookbooks with me, just so I can have something to read and cook from. The following grilled chicken recipe is a long standing family favorite from The Black Dog Cookbook. I gathered all the ingredients today at Morning Glory farm, also a perennial favorite. The marinade is simple - limes, garlic, cilantro, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Serve with corn and/or a big salad for a summer treat. Enjoy every bite.

Grilled Chicken with Cilantro & Lime Marinade

Ingredients

1/4 cup olive oil

Zest of 1 lime

4 tbsp of fresh lime juice

1 garlic clove, minced

salt and pepper

4 chicken breasts (boneless)

Method

Mix the first 6 ingredients todays in a large bowl.
Place chicken breasts in marinade and cover. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
Grill for 7- 10 minutes on each side. Serve.

Savory: Gazpacho

2011-07-11T22:40:00.001-04:00

Days like today, when it is 100 degrees in the shade, make me long for comforts of summer. Watermelon, lemonade, and my favorite...gazpacho. Now bear in mind this recipe is a favorite not only because it is so very tasty. Nor is it because it is healthy and chocked full of vitamins and minerals. Not even because the vegans will eat in my home if I serve it. While all of those things are important, the reason I am able to love gazpacho is simple - I am privileged to own a food processor. Without it, this recipe is torture. Unless you are really angry and feel like wielding a knife for an hour or so, in which case I have no judgement.

Basically, you chop up vegetables and add some seasoning. Chill and serve with some Greek yogurt and french bread, and you have party. Enjoy every bite.

Tavern Gazpacho

Adapted from the Black Dog Cookbook

Ingredients

3 lbs ripe tomatoes
1 red onion
4 scallions
1 peeled and seeded cucumber (even better, a hot house one if you can find it)
1 red pepper
2 pieces of celery
1 quart tomato juice
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup rd wine vinegar
2 tsp Worcester sauce
1 tsp Tabasco sauce
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
salt and pepper to taste

Method

Chop the vegetables in the food processor - do not liquefy, as you want a little texture. Add to a bowl.
Add the remaining ingredients. Chill for 1 hour or more. Serve.

One last word. Last time I posted it was approaching Passover and now we have just passed the Fourth of July. Time flies as a working mom, and I have woefully neglected this blog and my faithful readers. I am sorry for the absence, and promise to be more diligent.

On The List: Saddle Of Lamb

2011-03-15T21:11:00.015-04:00

Here at Chez Noonie we are starting to plan for Passover, a favorite holiday in these parts. We have a few standards, including matzoh ball soup and home made gefilte fish. At our table, we also usually serve lamb, once an uneasy point of contention in our family. Nowadays I am more confident, and ready to take on new challenges. This year, we will be trying a new dish, stuffed saddle of lamb.

The saddle is one of those quiet butcher cuts that you don't generally see lurking on the supermarket shelves. It is comprised of the backbone and both loins and by all accounts delicious. Saddle of lamb is also pricey and hard to come by.

Another challenge with saddle of lamb is the actual butchering. You want to be very specific with your meat man here, as different recipes call for different techniques. Most recipes call for a boneless cut, which by most accounts must be rendered by a professional, or risk butchering the job. If you are kosher, you will need a schochet (kosher butcher) to remove the sciatic nerve.

Below is the recipe I am currently eying for the main event -- Stuffed Saddle of Lamb. It comes from one of my favorite authors, Joanne Harris, of Chocolat fame. Her cookbooks are lusciously photographed (Fran Warde) and beautifully narrated, such that anytime I read one I finish feeling like I have just returned from France, visiting warm and wonderful friends. I always have luck with their recipes and this one looks like a fun challenge. I will continue posting here as I prepare for this endeavor - in the meantime, please feel free to comment below on your experiences with this kind of lamb, Passover cooking, or anything else on your mind.

Recipe follows below; enjoy every bite.

Agneau Farci

Stuffed Lamb

Original recipe from The French Market by Joann Harris and Fran Warde

Serves 6 - 8

Ingredients
1 3 1/2 lb boned saddle of lamb
2 red peppers
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the pan
2 red onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 14 oz can of artichoke bottoms
4 oz ground lamb
3 oz pitted black olives, chopped
2 sprigs rosemary, leaves chopped
1 large egg yolk
Sea salt to taste
Pepper, to taste

Method
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Lay the lamb out flat, skin side down, and have some kitchen twine ready for tying.
Roast red peppers over a gas flame until charred. Place in bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit for 10 minutes.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute more. In a bowl, mix onions and garlic with the artichokes, ground lamb, olives, rosemary, egg yolk, salt, and pepper.
Peel the red peppers, and cut away flesh from the ribs, discarding the seeds.
Spread the artichoke mixture evenly over the lamb. Place all the red peppers in one strip down the middle. Roll the two sides of the lamb together and tie securely with a string at 1 inch intervals.
Lightly oil a roasting pan and add the lamb. Roast for 1 hour and 20 minutes for rare (130 degrees). Remove from oven and let stand in a warm place for 20 minutes. Serve.

Savory: Lamb With Artichoke Hearts

2010-12-19T13:27:00.009-05:00

Lamb. My great marital culinary divide.

My husband, half Irish and half Lebanese, grew up eating it several times a week. While wearing wool sweaters.

My mother, who grew up in a kosher home, would sooner prepare pork. She has terrible associations with lamb, including an unfortunate incident when it was ground up for hamburgers. It never graced our table, and subsequently it never occurred to me to add it to my cooking repertoire. That is until I met my husband.

Anxious to please/show off, I purchased a Lebanese cookbook and got to work. Spinach pies, hummus, and kibbe soon appeared, all to grateful ooh's and ah's. We moved in together shortly thereafter. I was sure it was the food.

But I stumbled on the lamb, and resisted it for some time. It was as foreign to me as it was familiar to him. One day, my then boyfriend now husband was reminiscing about his childhood, and he kept talking about a stew his grand-mother used to make, Fasulia. It has green beans, and cinnamon, and...lamb. Stew meat. As in should be easy to work with stew meat. I immediately went to work and found a simple recipe. It was a hit with my husband, although I mostly ate the vegetables, being a little shy. My efforts were rewarded and shortly thereafter we were engaged.

Feeling more confident, I decided to move on to more sophisticated parts. Which tend to be costly, and therefore helpfully eliminated my choices to the more economical. I decided to try lamb shoulder chops. They are priced right, cook individually, and are available on the bone. I went searching for a recipe and found one with all my favorite things including artichoke hearts, cherry tomatoes, lemon, and olives. Bonus: It comes from Martha Stewart, a woman whose recipes have consistently been fool proof. I doubt I would ever have her over for dinner, but am a more confident host when I have cooked from her experience.

This recipe comes together quickly, simply, and beautifully. It is a one dish meal, preferably accomplished with a large, heavy skillet. I often break out my electric skillet for this, as it is large enough to hold the ingredients perfectly. The lamb is sauteed, and perfumes the entire kitchen with a wonderful rich aroma. Then toss in the vegetables, later the wine, and finish with the lemon zest and olives. I like to serve it with a lemon rice.

I made this dish for my husband one evening and to my surprise, we both relished it. The lamb cooked on the bone makes this meat particularly succulent and delicious. It also cuts into small pieces, making a strongly flavored meat more manageable with each bite. Sweet wine offsets the gaminess. The vegetables perfectly compliment the lamb, elevating it into some sort of Mediterranean celebration.

Two weeks later we were married. I am not sure if my cooking ultimately shepherded my marriage, but am positive that it brought us closer together.

Enjoy every bite.

Lamb With Artichokes

Original recipe:

http://www.marthastewart.com/recipe/lamb-chops-with-artichoke-hearts

Ingredients

4 shoulder lamb chops (1/2 inch thick each)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 or 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, halved crosswise and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
4 artichoke hearts (water-packed, from one 14-ounce can), rinsed, drained, and each cut into six wedges (Sometimes I use artichoke bottoms, which are a little easier to work with)
1/4 cup fruity white wine, such as a New Zealand Marlborough Valley Sauvignon Blanc (this recipe also works well with a nice vermouth)
1 cup homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved
1 tablespoon lemon-zest strips

Method

Rinse chops; pat dry. Season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Cook lamb in two batches, turning once, 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to a platter; loosely cover with foil.
Add onion and artichoke hearts to same skillet (add 1 tablespoon oil if skillet is dry). Cook over medium heat until softened and golden (do not brown), 3 to 5 minutes. Add wine; cook until almost all liquid is evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add stock and tomatoes; cover, and cook 3 minutes. Uncover; cook until sauce is reduced by half, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in olives and zest. Season with salt and pepper.
Spoon vegetables and sauce over lamb, and serve.

Overlooked: Cranberry Tart

2010-11-25T00:19:00.012-05:00

Cranberries are overlooked. Don't get me wrong, we use them all right. Cranberry juice is always a hit. Craisins reinvented dried fruit. And cranberry sauce is a staple at many Thanksgiving tables. No the cranberry dilemma is not for lack of products or volume. It is for lack of inclusion.

You see, fresh cranberries rarely make it to the dessert table. Apple crisps, blueberry crumbles, pumpkin pies all reign over the holiday, but cranberries are suspiciously missing in action. I think people are turned off by their tartness, and assume there is not much to be done with them. But I say if you can turn rhubarb into something special, cranberries pose no great challenge.

Here is a terrific, simple recipe that is sure to please. The sweet and sour of the cranberries and orange are complemented by a splash of Cointreau and lots of rich wonderful cream. The tart is deconstructed, which makes preparation easy and the overall effect visually stunning. The result is a fun, elegant dessert that provides a wonderful stage for the mighty cranberry.

Happy Thanksgiving and enjoy every bite.

Cranberry Tart

Ingredients

1 large orange, zested and juiced
12 - 16 oz cranberries
1 stick unsalted butter
1 3/4 + 3 tbsp flour
2 tbsp + 1/4 cup + 2/3 cup sugar
1 3/4 cups flour
pinch of salt
3/4 cup heavy cream
2 eggs
1 tbsp Cointreau

Method

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
Combine the cranberries, orange juice, and 2 tbsp sugar in a large bowl. Set aside.
Melt butter on low heat. Add orange zest (approx. 1 tbsp). Let sit for 5 minutes.
Combine 1 3/4 cup flour, 1/4 cup sugar, and salt. Slowly pour the butter into the mixture; stir with a fork until blended.
Press the dough into the tart pan. Place in oven and bake for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool.
Heat the oven to 400 degrees.
Combine the remaining sugar, flour, eggs, Cointreau, and cream.
Drain the cranberries and place in the tart pan. Pour the cream mixture over the top. Sprinkle with sugar.
Bake for 35 minutes and then cool on a wire rack.

Sweet: Cranberry Almond Bark

2010-11-20T22:57:00.004-05:00

The Thanksgiving guest is always searching for the perfect gift. What if someone else (and they will) brings flowers and wine? How many sides and dessert are enough?

Here's a simple little hostess gift that takes less than 10 minutes to make and is sure to please. This recipe is a great choice because everyone has different preferences, there is always one person with some weird allergy to regular chocolate and can't partake in the standard offers, and the cranberries give it a nice, Thanksgiving feel. Enjoy every bite.

Cranberry Almond Bark

adapted from Jane Sharrock's Who Wants Candy

Ingredients

16 oz of white chocolate chips
1/2 cup toasted almond slivers
1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries

Method

In a double boiler, melt the chips
Add the almonds and cranberries
Pour onto a lined baking sheet (parchment paper is fine). Smooth into a thin layer.
Cool in the fridge for 1 hour. Break into pieces and serve.

Sweet: Caramel Apples

2010-10-24T23:44:00.015-04:00

I really miss the old Halloweens I had as a child, when it was a big deal to get a Hershey bar and not so out of the ordinary to get a homemade treat.

This year for Halloween we are giving out glow sticks, but the first 12 (OK 10 - my kids are going to get one each) lucky trick or treaters are going to get a delicious homemade caramel apple to boot. We live on a small, cobblestone alley where everyone knows everyone - I always say it's like living on Sesame Street. Most of the kids that will be stopping by are on a first name basis with us, and they will be with their folks who are also our friends and neighbors. They know us to be fairly respectable, and so hopefully that will mitigate any crazy daisy razor fears that have fueled the wrapped candy rage since the eighties.

I have gone through many a caramel apple recipe, unwrapped countless cellophane caramel wrappers, and made myself crazy searching for the popsicle sticks. and this is by far the best approach. The recipe itself is fairly straightforward but does have a few tricks. You can purchase the wooden sticks at any craft store. The caramel cooks nicely in a Le Creuset or other heavy pan, and you will need an instant read thermometer. I special ordered an infrared one just for giggles, and because that is MY treat for this holiday. Super cool.

Finally, there is wrapping. You can purchase a bubble apple, 12 x 12 cellophane squares, or boxes. Personally, I like the boxes and the bubbles because they are no muss no fuss, but if you are doing big quantities and have time to wrap and tie on your hands, it makes sense to buy the cellophane. All of this can be purchased online at various candy supply stores.

This year I will be managing the process with my co-hosts, SpongeBob and Super Why. Both are very excited to make and eat these apples, and especially to share them. I will take lots of pics and post shortly. Until then, happy Halloween and enjoy every bite.

Old Fashioned Caramel Apples

from Jane Sharrock's Who Wants Candy

Ingredients

12 medium apples

2 cups sugar

1 cup packed light brown sugar

2/3 cup light corn syrup

1/2 cup butter

1 cup half and half or evaporated milk

1 tsp salt

2 tsp vanilla extract

2 cups chopped nuts (I used honey roasted peanuts) - optional

Method

Wash and dry apples. Remove stems. Insert wooden skewer into each, using a twist-like motion so the apple will not split.
Cover a large area with wax paper (counter top will do nicely).
In a large, heavy pot combine all the ingredients except the extract and nuts. Bring to a boil and cook until 246 degrees. Add vanilla.
Remove from heat and cool slightly until thickened.
Double dip the apples and then roll bottoms in chopped nuts. Place on wax paper. Cool until firm and serve.

Overlooked: Duck & Turnips

2010-10-16T15:21:00.014-04:00

Sometimes when I am cooking I like to choose the thing that is most overlooked, either in the store or the pantry. The bumpy, lumpy tomato that nobody wanted. The gamey game that seems improbable.

So it was with was duck and turnips. The latter I received as part of my weekly CSA share, and the former is a long time favorite of mine. I am not sure why duck is overlooked by my fellow cooks. It is readily available, grown wild (very difficult to domesticate duck - you can't make them sit around a confined area like you can with other poultry), affordable, and delicious. I find it is no more work than chicken, albeit more fatty, but I for me that is a bonus. I save what is rendered, which has a sweet taste and cooks beans and potatoes (and in this case, turnips) beautifully. Usually I can make fat from 1 duck last for about 3 weeks.

Turnips are a lonely root vegetable. If you can find them at the market, they tend to reside in less desirable shelf space, quietly looking out and waiting to be taken home like lost puppies. They taste like a cross between cabbage and potato, and are full of vitamins. I also like turnips because they are easy to prepare; just peel, chop, and cook.

This week I had a duck in my freezer and turnips in the pantry, and so I went recipe shopping. Julia Child always is my first resort for land of the lost items, and so it was that she had a simple, easy recipe for the 2 of them. I love her simplicity; the recipe has less then 10 ingredients and just 6 key steps to create a tasty dinner for 4. This recipe was part of the Julie/Julia project, and the post is worth a read.

The recipe is presented below for your viewing consideration. Enjoy every bite.

Caneton Poele Aux Navets
(Casserole roasted duck with turnips)

Ingredients
A 5 1/2 lb ready to cook ducking
1/2 tsp + 1 /2 tsp salt
1/8 tsp pepper
3 tbsp olive oil
4 parsley sprigs + 2 - 3 tbsp minced parsley
1/2 bay leaf
1/4 tsp thyme
2 lbs crisp white or yellow turnips

Method

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees
Season the inside of the duck with salt and pepper, truss it, prick the skin around the thighs, back, and lower part of the breast. Dry it thoroughly. Brown it slowly on all sides in the heated olive oil. Use a heavy, oval casserole for this - Le Creuset is ideal.
Pour out the browning fat. Salt the duck and place it breast up in the casserole. Add the herbs (place them in cheese cloth or an infuser), cover the casserole, and and place in the oven (mid level). Roast for 50 - 60 minutes.
While the duck is cooking, peel the turnips and cut into thin ovals. Drop into boiling, salted water and boil for 5 minutes. Drain.
After the duck has roasted for 50 - 60 minutes, degrease the casserole with a baster. Arrange the turnips around the duck and return it to the oven. Baste occasionally. Cook for another 30 - 40 minutes.
Drain the duck, place on a hot platter, and serve with parsley sprinkled on top.

10 Simple Pre-School Lunch Ideas

2010-08-27T22:32:00.002-04:00

Pre-school lunch is a challenge. As I wrote last year, a lot of love and angst goes into packing a lunch, and in the end the most important thing is that the kids learn how to have a meal together. That being said, here are 10 simple, effective, and fun ideas to make pre-school lunch more enjoyable for all:

Something dip-able. Kids love to dunk things, so pack a little cream cheese or yogurt in a container with an easily removable top, add some baby carrots, and you have a party.

Pack a surprise toy. Nothing elaborate like an American Doll or Buzz Lightyear, but a few tattoos or a yo yo.

Send weather appropriate meals. If it is cold and rainy, a small thermos of chicken soup is a big hit (especially with crackers...see point 1). Warm and balmy weather calls for lighter and cooler fare.

Mix up the drinks. Send water most days, but every once in a while throw in some chocolate milk for kicks - they love being surprised.

Cut fruits into small, manageable pieces - they are too small to do it themselves, and the teachers don't have the time to help.

Cheese sticks are always a big hit. Alternatively, slice cheese into fun shapes using cookies cutters and place in a ziplock bag.

Don't over do or overlook dessert. If you put in too much, they go nuts and the teacher will be calling you in to discuss their behavior/your choices. If you do too little, they feel sad watching their friends guzzle down treats. Here are some ideas: a single homemade cookie or brownie, chocolate dipped strawberries, or 1/3 of a muffin (try the muffin top only - that always goes well).

Wrap it up. Place a choice morsel in a box and wrap it up in paper with a ribbon. Kids love presents.

Try to avoid peanuts, sesame products, and anything on the allergy alert list. Kids swap lunches and then some; it is a nice courtesy to the other parents and school.

Place photos in the lunch box, so when they eat they can see you and your family or even their favorite toys and or pets, and be comforted. You can purchase single photo sleeves to protect the pics,

What are your best pre-school lunch solutions? Comment below and tell me about it.

DIY: Corn Chowder

2010-08-23T18:56:00.019-04:00

Rainy days make me yearn for soup. Even rainy summer days, when it is cold but humid, bring out this want in me.

We are on vacation in Beautiful Martha's Vineyard. The island is even beautiful through inclimate weather. Hollyhocks sway in the wind, waters are choppy with boats bobbing forcefully against the current, and the wind blows forcefully but sweetly all through the island. It has been raining for 2 days straight now, and we are all a little stir crazy. The house was feeling a little chilly and damp, and we all needed an excuse to get out so off to the farmer's market we went. I had recently purchased the Morning Glory Farm Cookbook, and decided on their roasted corn chowder, using their own farm fresh ingredients.

Now this soup is not part of my repertoire. I rarely cook bacon, and when I do it is turkey bacon. Moreover, I have a low threshold for excessive chopping and this recipe is replete with knife acrobatics - you need to chop leeks, celery, potatoes, onions, red peppers, corn, parsley, and thyme. Finally, I tend to stay away from cream based soups. So why this soup?

Being on vacation means a lot of things, most of all a change in venue. For me, that includes the kitchen. I love hunting around a rental kitchen, making do with old utensils and re-purposing pots and pans. And there is something inspiring about this that makes me want to cook outside my own boundaries, to shift the scenery of my own culinary life and try new things. And so corn chowder called to me as the perfect rainy day vacation solution.

As I said, there is a lot of chopping. My son wandered in and out of the kitchen while I as cooking, his eyes widening as he watched my knife flash over the cutting board again and again. He took a piece of pepper here, a little celery there, anxious to see what captured my attention. He also eyed the corn happily. Freshly roasted from the oven, it made a nice little snack while waiting for the big show.

The bacon sizzled while the rain drizzled outside, creating a nice cadence and wonderful aroma throughout the house. You need to season the pan with bacon drippings, which provides a nice smokey base to the soup. I then added the vegetables and sauteed them for a few minutes. From there, a simple roux followed by the remaining ingredients and voila, corn chowder. And lots of it - a big mess of a pot that will easily last through several meals.

This is restaurant quality fare, to be savored with a nice hunk of bread and a fire nearby if you can swing it. We all huddled over the soup, enjoying it's hearty warmth. Recipe is below, enjoy every bite.

Roasted Corn Chowder

Serves 8 - 10

Ingredients

6 ears of corn, kernels off the cob

1 tbsp olive oil

Pinch of sea alt

Fresh ground pepper

8 slices of high quality smoked bacon, finely diced

4 medium yukon gold potatoes, peeled or unpeeled, diced into 1/2 inch cubes

2 medium onions, medium diced

4 stalks of celery, trimmed and medium diced

2 medium leeks, white parts only, medium diced

1 red bell pepper, seeded, cored, and medium diced

4 tbsp unsalted butter

6 tbsp all purpose flour

1/2 cup dry sherry

6 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 cup heavy cream

1 tbsp thyme, finely chopped

1 tbsp fresh chopped parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

Method

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees
Toss corn in olive oil, adding salt and pepper to taste. Lay in a sheet pan. Roast for 8 - 10 minutes. Set aside.
In a heavy bottomed 5 - 7 quart pot, saute the bacon for 7 minutes. Drain, but leave a small amount in the pot for flavoring.
Add the chopped vegetables and cook for 5 minutes, until tender. Add the butter. When melted, stir in the flour and cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add sherry and stir.
Add the stock and bring to a slow boil for 15 minutes. Add the roasted corn, cream, herbs, salt and pepper. Reheat until hot bot not boiling. Serve.

For a vegetarian version, use vegetable stock, skip the bacon, and add 1 - 3 drops of liquid smoke.

Sip: Thirsty Lemonade

2010-08-18T20:53:00.006-04:00

Today, I got on a bike for the first time in 10 years.

I have nothing against biking, just nowhere to put a bike in my urban home. Coupled with a general apathy toward sport, it has fallen to the wayside over the years. Until today. We are on vacation in beautiful Martha's Vineyard, MA, and this year rented me a bike of my own.

My daughter just learned to ride. She has a green monster of a bike that she proudly pedals up and down the street lie a pro. Five years old and already she shows the promise of an athlete in all her endeavors; her gymnastics teacher named her 'muscles'. Anyway, she has been asking if I could ride a bike too, and a little voice in my head told me, "yes you can, yes you must".

I stood next to my wobbly grey bike, getting ready to get on, when my husband snuck up to wish me luck. "By the way, you know how to use the gears, right?" Gears? What are gears? I never learned to ride with gears. Panicked, I let him show me the way to use them, and coach me on hills, up and down. I was getting ready to make an excuse, fake a leg cramp, offer uxorious erotica, anything to get out of it, when my daughter sidled up to us and asked brightly, "Ready, Mommy?" Her expectant face was so full of excitement, and hope, and I could not say no.

The kids piled into a trailer attached to my husband's bike while I went out to practice. One leg, two legs, BRAKE. Over and over I did this until suddenly I just let go. I am not sure why or when this happened, I only know that it did, and when I released my legs I let go of my fears, letting them float away off the lagoon and back to the shores from whence they came. Biking felt good. I did a mile and change, my daughter yelling from the trailer, "You're doing it Mommy. You're doing it. Good job!" My son gave an appreciative wail of support. We had a great time, and when I came back I was feeling content and upbeat. And thirsty. Which is when I made my favorite lemonade.

This is a great drink for summer days and nights, when you are tired from the heat but still wish the day wouldn't end. It can be easily perked up with a few frozen strawberries or some ice cold vodka. Or both, whatever works for you. The secret is simple syrup, a combination of equal parts hot water with sugar. It forces the sugar to dissolve, and allows the sweetness to travel evenly throughout the pitcher.

I drank my lemonade for one, enjoying a few moments of solitude and a little personal pride. It is sweet but sour, cold yet warm from the citrus. The thin circles of lemon reminded me of my bicycle wheels, and it was the perfect way to celebrate my little triumph. Enjoy every sip.

Lemonade

Serves 4

4 cups of water, plus 1/2 cup

1/2 cup sugar

Juice from 3 lemons

Pour 4 cups of water into a pitcher with ice. Set aside.
Heat 1/2 cup of water to boil. Add and dissolve sugar. Stir mixture into pitcher.
Add lemon juice to the pitcher. Serve.

DIY: Roasted tomatoes

2010-08-09T00:29:00.008-04:00

Summer is a hot and sticky time, and on those particularly sweltering days, I have a hard and fast rule: nothing that cooks for more than 10 minutes. There are lots of great options, including a no cook meal like cold cuts or salad. But by far my favorite recipe is roasted tomatoes.

First of all, I like to construct my meals whenever possible. This meal makes me feel like I am at a cocktail hour at a wedding. You take a slice of bread, layer it with mozzarella and roasted tomato, and boom, before you know it the whole thing is gone. It brings the table together, because everyone has common space and purpose, building great community.

Next, it cooks in 10 minutes. 10 minutes is still doable on a hot day, although I admit I crank up the AC before starting. 10 minutes is a blink of an eye, just shy of microwave efficiencies. Finally, 1o minutes is just enough time to slice the bread and cheese, clear and set the table, and yell at my kids.

Moerover, some would argue that a nice raw tomato salad beats that any day, and I hear that. I love a caprese salad. But the roasted tomatoes pack this incredible, juicy, flavorful punch that cannot be beat. Plus there is this texture thing happening, one that creates a unique mouth-feel that brings you back for more. The tomatoes become shrunken, wrinkly like fancy olives, and the skin becomes an asset to the fruit.

Now of course you can dress this up. Simply, using some basil leaves or oregano, even mint works. You can up the ante with some smoked mozzarella or Gouda. And you can certainly bake your own baguette, but that would violate the 10 minute summer rule and I have no patience for that. Any way you serve it, stay cool and enjoy every bite.

Roasted Tomatoes

Ingredients
2 pints of cherry or grape tomatoes, washed and dried
olive oil to drizzle
salt and pepper
12 oz wet mozzarella cheese
1 baguette

Method

Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees.
Scatter tomatoes on a broiler pan lined with foil. Drizzle with olive oil and mix until coated. Season with salt and pepper.
Roast for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.
Serve with mozzarella and baguette slices.

Sweet: The Birthday Cake Diaries

2010-08-01T20:00:00.000-04:00

This week is my daughter's 5th birthday. In addition presents, favors, decorations, guests, and the rest of the birthday requests, there is of course the cake.

The birthday cake is the centerpiece of a kid's party. It sets the tone, be it through decor or taste, for the rest of the party. Kids notice it, even more so than adults, and talk about it for many days after. So failure is not an option.

I have gotten pretty good at birthday cakes; not as good as my friend Rachel, who actually built a working volcano on her last masterpiece, but I can bake a decent cake. This year, I am challenged by a request for Thomas the Tank Engine, chocolate cake with pudding in the middle. I have my game plan in place, and am going to document it night by night, as I step through the process.

Day 1: Make the frosting and pudding
So the first part of today has been spent delaying as much as possible. This is an excellent waste of time, and terrific way to make yourself crazy later on. Going downstairs to take the butter out of the fridge. There, that's much better.

Here is the recipe for the pudding, shamelessly stolen directly from Martha herself. I have made this before with pretty good results. Just a little time consuming, but well worth the result. All done and mmm...good. Velvety, chocolaty, and very smooth, this a pudding lover's dream come true. Don't let the thickening psyche you out - you can feel when it is ready. Trust your whisk. Out of saran wrap, damn. Parchment paper to the rescue. Think the frosting will have to wait until tomorrow, unless I get a second wind.

Oh yeah, I forgot about all the other birthday food in the fridge...must alert my super organized husband and get him on the job.

Day 2: Make the cakes
Took out all the dry ingredients, mixed and sifted, got ready for the wet and realized none of it is at room temperature. Damn, damn, damn, damn. This gives me a few minutes to blog and berate myself for being such an airhead. It is 9:45 pm the night before the party and even though I took the day off, I have waited until now to begin baking.

This year I am challenged with a Barefoot Contessa Chocolate with Butter Cream recipe that is most likely as delicious as the rest of her repertoire. I really love her best of all the Food Network stars; she seems like the kind of person you would want at your table. Relaxed, casual, elegant. I love when she goes outside to cut herbs or takes us to her local chicken farm. But most of all I love her recipes, which I find to be simple by design although rarely easy in execution. TBC is work, work that is supposed to seem effortless which is not how at all consistent with how I am performing at the moment.

Watching it bake. Its after 11. Not sure if I over-mixed -it seemed a little on the fluffy side for batter. Smells good though.

OK, they seem cooked through and pretty moist, but I really screwed up when I turned one of them out. Cake pieces everywhere - I had to reconstruct them like a surgeon. Not sure how it will hold up tomorrow, but they are cooled, wrapped, and ready to be decorated.

Day 3: Assemble and decorate
Well as usual, the frosting is being done the day of the event. Not a big deal, just frustrating. The frosting is also from TBC. This is a traditional butter cream, the kind with a meringue base. Luckily, I saved the 8 egg whites from the pudding (which required 8 egg yolks), making this a very efficient recipe. I whip the whites into a frenzy, good, good, all is going well.

fuuuck. I just added warm chocolate to cold butter and it is now a soupy mess. Ruined. I have my tantrum until my together husband suggests sticking it in the fridge, which actually works! Super husband saves the day.

Now putting it all together. This is not a duplo set where everything fits together. The lower piece is in at least 20 pieces, all of which I carefully assemble and stick together with chocolate pudding. There, it somewhat resembles a rectangle. Frosting will even it that out later. I slather on a mound of pudding and top it with the remaining layer. Whew.

Now the next step is critical. Known as the crumb coat, it is the first layer of frosting to go on the cake. It gives the cake some shape, but more importantly layers down the crumbs so they are not all over the final product. I grab my bench scrapper, load on a pile of frosting, and stick it in the fridge for an hour. I am starting to feel more calm, and start hunting for decorations. Hey, the paper piece of a party blower works, as does a spare plastic Thomas train bubble blower. This is going to come together, I can feel it.

OK, it's been an hour. Frosting layer number two goes on without a problem. Back in the fridge for another hour.

Time to decorate. Nothing over the top - just happy birthday with some glitter pen icing, a little fringe on the bottom, and add the other pieces, voila. A birthday cake for at least 40 people. Too bad we are only having 20. Oh well, the neighbors will have a good week on us.

Anyway, the cake was a big hit; moist and delicious. Frosting was fabulous, just the right texture with hints of mocha. My daughter really enjoyed it, as you can probably guess. And as you now know, the entire process was fraught with mistakes, recoveries, and love, as it should be. Happy birthday my beautiful girl. We love you so.

DIY: Fried Green Tomatoes At The Chez Noonie Cafe

2010-07-21T19:18:00.016-04:00

Fried Green Tomatoes are worth the price of admission. The film was sentimental and heartwarming. The recipe is crunchy, fun, and delicious.

I have always wanted to make these, ever since I saw the film. But the tomatoes were hard to come by. I saw many an heirloom green tomato, but those are soft and ripe and mushy, the way they ought to be. Green tomatoes are firm; that is the key to this recipe. Firm tomatoes. Anything soft and mushy will not do, because it will fall apart when frying. So seek out green tomatoes, just regular tomatoes that have not ripened yet, at your market - it is the season for them.

Green tomatoes taste a little tart, and have a nice fleshy mouth feel to them. When fried, they become a slice of heaven, slightly warm and tender on the inside, crunchy and salty on the outside. There is something about the contrast of textures and flavors that makes this dish unique and wonderful.

I also enjoyed the cooking process. There is something comforting about the preparation; you need three shallow bowls, one each for the flour, milk/eggs, and corn meal. Then you dip in each bowl, one at a time, until you have mounds of these wonderful tomatoes sitting on a rack, waiting to be fried. I don't know if I would go so far as to call it zen like, but there was a flow after a while, where all I was doing was dipping and dredging...and my mind went south. I was surprised when I was done, I had so gotten caught in the doing, the moment.

And then of course there is the eating. I tried lots of condiments with this. Salsa was tasty, but messy. Mayonnaise was good, as it is with all manners of fried things. But hands down the best was ketchup. Something about tomato on tomato action just really works, yielding a tangy treat. I kept thinking about hamburgers, as the tomato kind of looks like a giant pickle covered with ketchup, a la Whopper. I bet a fried green tomato would taste great on a burger...mmm, must remember for next time.

In the film, they are cooked and enjoyed by two best friends, becoming a symbol of the life their cafe brought to a sleepy southern town. Now, I am not sure if they can bring an entire community together again. But people will come just to see them, and stay to eat them. They are novelty fare that will keep crowds and families pleased. Even my 2 year could not resist eating a 'motato'. Enjoy every bite.

Ingredients

4 medium sized, green tomatoes

1/2 cup white flour

1/2 cup milk

1 egg, beaten

1/2 cup corn meal

salt and pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

Method

Mix milk and egg together in a shallow pan. Place flour and corn in like pans. Add salt and pepper to taste to the corn meal.
Slice each tomato lengthwise into 4 equal slices. Trim the round ends.
Dust each slice with flour, then dip in milk/egg mixture. Dredge each slice in corn meal. Set aside on a rack and complete the rest of the slices.
Heat olive oil on medium in a frying pan. Add tomato slices and cook for 2 -3 minutes/side. Serve hot.

The Lesser Evil: Pancakes

2010-07-18T20:50:00.002-04:00

There is something about a summer pancake breakfast. My kids go berserk as soon as they see me take out the big bowls and spoons - they know what's coming. Maybe I do it this time of year because it reminds me of vacations, when there is plenty of time to make the morning meal and linger over the coffee. Making pancakes takes me to that happy place, and my kids straight to heaven.

But I see a lot of crazy short cuts to pancakes these days, and I have to say they scare me to no end. The other day I saw them sold in the freezer section of the supermarket, waiting to be microwaved in some poor kitchen with little time and low standards. The ingredient list was long and painful. The directions were brief and unappetizing. The calorie count rivaled the deficit. Stay away from frozen pancakes my friends - they are evil.

Evil comes in many forms, and it certainly manifests itself in the kitchen. But what does it mean? I always liked the definition of the devil, evil incarnate, from the film Broadcast News:

"What do you think the Devil is going to look like if he's around? Nobody is going to be taken in if he has a long, red, pointy tail. No. I'm semi-serious here. He will look attractive and he will be nice and helpful and he will get a job where he influences a great God-fearing nation and he will never do an evil thing... he will just bit by little bit lower standards where they are important. Just coax along flash over substance... Just a tiny bit. And he will talk about all of us really being salesmen. And he'll get all the great women."

The stuff at the market is a little like that. It is attractively prepared and packaged. It is helpful in that it seems to save time and effort. And let's face it, it has influenced a many a great nation, which is why we find ourselves in the state of food crisis we are in these days. It is therefore incumbent upon we consumers not to choose flash over substance, but to choose the lesser evil.

In the case of pancakes, next on the wrung of wrong is Bisquick. I am not a fan and honestly do not see the point of this product. But some folks swear by it. Here are the ingredients:

Enriched Flour Bleached (Wheat Flour, Niacin, Iron, Thiamin Mononitrate, Riboflavin, Folic Acid), Partially Hydrogenated Soybean and/or Cottonseed Oil, Leavening (Baking Soda, Sodium Aluminum Phosphate, Monocalcium Phosphate), Dextrose, Salt.

Bleached flour is a bad idea. To do it, firms use things like peroxide and chlorine, things you don't want in your hair much less your mouth. It is used purely for appearance, to seem whiter than white. Partially hydrogenated soybean or cottonseed oil anyone? I think we've established the dangers of these products. So why buy them in a mix? Bisquick works in a pinch, but the ouch factor is not worth it. Buyers beware.

From my own experience, the best way to get pancakes is to make them. They really are easy to do, taste great, are fun to cook, and ready in less than 1/2 hour. Best of all, when you make them yourself, you can be confident about what you are eating, without the fine print haunting you later.

Ways to further lessen the evil:

Add fruit such as bananas, blueberries, strawberries, cherries, apples, and anything else you enjoy.
Use almond flour, a terrific option particularly celebrated by the gluten free crowd. I have personally come to know and love cooking and baking with it.
Cut out the extra sugar, or at least lower your risks. Mix with palm sugar, and if you need syrup, use real maple syrup. Or consider agave, which has a much lower glycemic index.

They are so good, it's almost sinful, dare I say evil (pinky points to corner of mouth)? Enjoy every bite.

Blueberry Pancakes

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups unbleached flour

1 tsp salt

1/4 cup sugar

1 3/4 tsp double acting baking powder

2 beaten eggs

3 tbsp melted butter

1 cup of milk

1/2 cup blueberries

Method

Mix the dry ingredients in one bowl.
Mix the wet ingredients in another bowl
Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and combine until just mixed. Let this mixture sit for 15 minutes.
Heat a skillet on medium until hot, then add pancake batter, 1/4 cup at a time. Dot tops with blueberries and let cook until bottoms are firm. Flip and let rise for approximately 1 minute, or until cooked through (you can tell if the bottom is brown and they have risen a little). Serve.

Homemade challah for the working woman

2010-07-09T20:37:00.001-04:00

I recently headed back to the office after being at home for nearly 18 months. During that year and a half, I renewed my relationships with my children, husband, self, and…my kitchen. I have always been one to cook and entertain, but being at home upped the ante. I turned play dates into dinner dates. Every Friday was a complete Shabbat dinner. There was usually a homemade something or other for dessert. And we had so many leftovers, we had to literally give them away to the neighbors. During this time, I shopped at my leisure, stopping into boutique markets and buying direct from the farms. I founded a CSA. In short, I found a great deal of happiness and comfort in cooking, especially for those I love. It became more than a hobby; it became a passion.

Click to read more.

The Lesser Evil: Chicken Nuggets

2010-07-07T23:46:00.000-04:00

Ew. I don't like that. Gross. Throw it out the window.

Yes, my lovely and loving children have said all these things to my dinners, and I to their preferences. This is of course the universal parent-child discourse, and in our house like many others they are fighting words, tactics that lead to escalation (que the spilled water) and worse. I try to avoid the confrontation, but it sometimes is impossible, especially if they have a very specific idea of what's for dinner tonight. Often, I am left to choose the lesser of several evils, in an effort to compromise what they enjoy eating with what I can live with preparing.

Given the above, let's talk nuggets. Chicken nuggets are tasty, easy to prepare, and 100% junk food. If you can live with that, more to you. I break them out on rare occasions, such as the long road trip with nothing but McDonalds in sight, or those nights when I have to suddenly work late and cannot possibly scramble dinner in time. Once in a while they are fine, but just understand that they are not really food per se. They are food products. Parts are not just parts.

A good alternative that seems to work for all is chicken tenders. A lesser evil, the tender is an actual part of the chicken breast, and therefore real as all get out. Chicken nuggets are to chicken tenders particle board as is to solid oak. You can buy pre-prepared chicken tenders, which are not necessarily the highest quality chicken, but a step above the nuggets. Even better, you can purchase the raw meat and make them yourselves, in under 10 minutes. They are my preferred lesser evil, and actually are enjoyed by all parties in the house, with no whining and the occasional, "mmm..good. Can I have some ice cream?"

Here are some options to lessen the evil:

Use grass fed, pasture raised chicken. It is better for you, and more humanely raised. Be prepared to be be poor for a few weeks though.
Skip the supermarket butcher and cut the tenders yourself. If you buy boneless, skinless, whole breasts, the tender is easily removed and used for this recipe. It's the side piece that kind of flops down over the larger breast. Often, I make tenders for the kids and use the breasts for grown-up recipes. Alternatively, make a big batch by cutting the breasts lengthwise into 1/2 inch strips.
Use real bread crumbs. Take some bread, cut it up, throw it in the food processor, and viola..bread crumbs a la Noonie.
Use a neutral fat like grapeseed oil to prepare this dish.

There are a lot of recipes out there for these tenders. Below is one that has worked for my family - give it a shot and see how the peeps respond. You'll know if its working by the glorious semi-silence that comes from those distinct, discreet eating noises at the dinner table. Happy sounds? You betcha. Enjoy every bite.

Breaded Chicken Tenders

Ingredients

3 boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1/2 inch strips

1 cup flour

1 tbsp salt

1 tsp black pepper

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup bread crumbs

3 - 4 tbsp + 1 tbsp grapeseed oil

Method

Place flour, salt, pepper, and any other seasoning you like into a ziplock bag. Add chicken and shake to coat.
Place breadcrumbs in a bowl and mix in 1 tbsp oil
Dip each piece of chicken in the egg, and then coat with breadcrumb mixture.
Add remaining oil to a skillet and heat on medium-high. Fry each piece of chicken for 2-3 minutes on each side, or until cooked.
Cool on a rack and serve shortly after with duck sauce, honey mustard, or whatever you have in the house.

DIY: Red Cabbage Slaw

2010-07-02T19:46:00.012-04:00

I love me some red cabbage. In the winter, it is one of my favorite dishes, sauteed with apples, onions, and a big pot roast. So delicious. But I never thought of it as a summer vegetable until it showed up in my CSA loot. 'Wrong season', I thought. Wrong thinking it was.

Red cabbage as it turns out is very much in season. While traditionally seeded in spring and harvested in fall, it often comes early in summer with a little coaxing. Red cabbage is also full of nutrients, and very high in fiber. It is rare that something so tasty is so good for you, and I knew I needed to find a way to incorporate it into my summer diet.

I had researched a few recipes online, and found a variation of red cabbage slaw on the food network. Below is my adapted recipe, and boy it is a zinger. Crunchy red cabbage is complimented by a tangy vinaigrette, whose pungent taste is offset by sweet onions and cranberries. And then there are the honey roasted peanuts which truly make this dish sing off the plate. You can make a few variations that I bet would be terrific:

Asian: Substitute toasted sesame oil, rice vinegar, sesame seeds, mandarin oranges, and lo mein noodles.
Italian: Substitute red vinegar, zante currants, and toasted pine nuts.
Spanish: Substitute sherry vinegar, figs, and marcona almonds.
French: Substitute white wine vinegar, apples, and french burnt peanuts.

Or add just what you please...anything will work and who knows, maybe it's in season too :)

Enjoy every bite.

Red cabbage slaw
Adapted from the Food Network
Ingredients
1/2 red cabbage, sliced thin
4 carrots, chopped
1 small, sweet onion (red or white)
8 oz dried cranberries
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
3 tbsp sugar
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tsp celery seed
salt and pepper
4 oz honey roasted peanuts, chopped

Method
Add the cabbage, carrot, onion, and cranberries to a large bowl and mix well.
In a small bowl, mix vinegar and sugar. Add oil, and gradually whisk in celery seed, salt, and pepper.
Add vinegar mix to the vegetable mix and toss to coat.
Let marinate for at least 30 minutes.
Top with peanuts and serve.

DIY: Radishes In Miso Sauce

2010-06-28T15:29:00.000-04:00

Chez Noonie got a new camera lens and wanted to take a close up of something under appreciated and often unnoticed. Then I received some radishes in my weekly CSA loot and soon after set my sights (and tastes) upon them. Radishes are overlooked at the supermarket. They are sold for next to nothing and often just act as a salad garnish that most people shunt aside in their search for more sumptuous morsels.

Truth is, they are attractive, warm, tasty, and it's worth paying attention to them. Radishes add terrific color to any dish. Their peppery skin adds a kick to anything from a salad to a sandwich to a side dish; when peeled, they are sweet and yielding, and make great eats. Also, they keep fresh in the fridge for a long time, making them a go to when everything has gone wilted. Finally, radishes are good for you. They are full of Riboflavin, Vitamin B6, Calcium, Magnesium, Copper and Manganese, and a very good source of Dietary Fiber, Vitamin C, Folate and Potassium. So listen up readers, because this recipe is worth trying.

I adapted this from a big oven recipe that calls for daikon radish, which is probably much easier to prepare. But it worked fine with garden variety red radishes, just a little more peeling involved. A few notes on it:

Red radishes require a lot of cleaning. Use a vegetable scrubber if you have one on hand, and clean it with the same rigor as you would a potato.
The original recipe called for serving it with chopped cilantro or nori, which I am sure would be nice. I decided to chop the discarded skins and let them pepper up the dish a little.
Make this a full dinner by poaching some sliced chicken with the radishes and serving with noodles.
You could also reserve the radish leaves and serve the above suggestion on top of them.
I am a big fan of the light miso for vegetables; any kind would likely work, but I think that the light miso, especially given the radishes high sugar content, works beautifully.

Braised Radishes in Miso Sauce

Ingredients

1 bunch of red radishes (10 - 12)

Water

1 tbsp miso light paste

1 small chili, sliced (I used a jalepeno)

1 tbsp sugar

Method

Peel the radishes and reserve the peels. Chop the radishes into thin circles and set aside. Chop the peels finely and set aside.
Simmer the water. Add the radishes and cook on simmer until soft, about 5 minutes.
Add chili, miso, and sugar. Simmer for another 5 minutes.
Strain the radishes and place on a platter. Sprinkle with chopped peel and serve.

On The List: Cacao Beans (And The Best Iced Mocha, Ever)

2010-06-23T00:41:00.016-04:00

Cacao beans are just so improbable. Take a look at those smooth brown pods, and the last thing you would think is, 'oh,, they can be transformed into a delicious chocolate treat.' Visually, they are ho hum at best - like tan tear drops. As far as taste, lets say that eating them in the raw is about as tasty as chomping on an evergreen. These things are bitter. Chalky. Get this thing out of my mouth bad.

And yet they feel so good. I had heard many claims that they are full of anti-oxidents and provide an incredible energy boost. When I can stomach them, this has been all true, but the upfront costs are high and, well, yucky. There had to be a better way to get my kicks.

Enter iced coffee. Is there anything more summer than a glass of iced coffee? Yeah, there's the fruit and the warm breezes and all that jazz, but at the end of the day, at least for me, iced coffee is the pause that refreshes. And mocha, well that is just heaven on earth. Now imagine a mocha that sources caffeine from the cacao beans, and not just the coffee. One with tremendous health and nutritional content. Fewer headaches, less cravings, just an energy boost and tasty drink. I started to experiment with the two and came up with the below recipe. It bookends as a great way to start the morning and then later at end the day as a cocktail.

A few quick tips on this recipe:

Like your mocha STRONG? Double brew this brew. Complete the recipe, then pour it back in the machine and re-filter the whole thing. Do not expect to sleep for a while.
You can make this with 100% ground cacao beans. It tastes like very light brown chocolate water. Add some cayenne and you have a real boost, but this is an acquired taste.
For cocktails, add 2 - 4 tbsp vodka, chocolate liquor, Baileys, or Sambucca.

Cacao is the basis for all things chocolate. It is fermented, dried, roasted, tread upon (by human feet more often than not), and treated before becoming Godiva. The beans are the purest state of chocolate, and therefore highly touted by the raw crowds and chocoholics everywhere. Often, it makes it way to the super foods list because of its antioxidents and high vitamin and mineral contents. Grown largely in the tropics of South America and West Africa, from which fair trade and organic beans are available, cacao is poised to be one hot commodity, the next latest thing.

You can find raw cacao beans in your local health food stores, but I like to buy them online, as they seem fresher, especially from places that sell them in bulk like nutsonline. They are a bit pricey, but last for a long time and are very efficient, especially when ground.

Enjoy, and please comment below on your experiences with cacao, coffee, and cocktails.

Iced Mocha Coffee

Ingredients

3 tbsp finely ground raw cacao beans

6 tbsp ground, decaf coffee

48 oz (8 cups on the coffee machine) fresh, cold water

Method

Mix the cacao and coffee grinds together
Add grinds to your coffee machine.
Add water. Brew.
Fill a pitcher with ice. Pour hot coffee in the pitcher over the ice and allow to chill. Add more ice if necessary.
Serve with cream and sugar/simple syrup.

Serves 6

Sweet: Blueberry Lime Tart

2010-06-18T01:08:00.000-04:00

Blueberry and lime are like unknowing lovers destined to be together, who keep missing each other due to circumstances beyond their control. One is sweet, the other sour. Like all great love stories opposites attract, come together with great passion, and merge into one. Tart, that is.

I've had blueberry lime desserts floating around in my head for months now. I wanted to do a pie but never can get the juices to manage themselves properly - blueberry pies are messy by nature because of the fruit's high juice content. When cooked, blueberries yield tremendous volumes of juice, which in turn run all over the place. The only way to manage them is with a thickener like corn starch or meringue powder, and I hate adding stuff like that unless absolutely necessary.

A betty or slump or other deconstructed cake was also on my list of ideas, but I wanted something with a little more finish, to showcase it a bit. And then I sat down with my best friend and fellow baker Debbie. And she came up with the idea of a tart. Brilliant - the blueberries don't need to be baked, so less mess. The lime flavors burst from the lime curd and crust. And the best thing about this tart is that once you've made the lime curd and crust, it comes together in less than 10 minutes. It looks impressive, tastes great, and lends a real sense of occasion to any event.

Some suggestions for this recipe:

Consider using wild blueberries if you can find them. They are smaller, a little more tart, and make a charming presentation.
Be patient with the lime curd. It takes a while, truly 12 - 15 minutes, to come together. Like whipped cream, you'll know it when you see it. And btw, lime curd is yellow. Because egg yolks are the main ingredient. Don't let it throw you off.
Don't use any bowls or pans made with reactive materials, like copper. It doesn't do well with acids.
If you want to go really nuts, make blueberry lime curd. Heat about 1/2 cup of blueberries with 1/8 cup sugar in a small pan. Let the juices burst from the berries. Strain, cool, and reserve the syrup. Swirl into the lime curd. Add to tart shell after removing foil and weights.
If you want to go completely over the top, add 1/2 cup sugar and 1 tbsp of lime zest to 1 cup heavy cream, and whip. Fold whipped cream into the lime card , then swirl in the blueberry syrup, then add to tart shell after removing foil and weights. No need to top with blueberries, although you can serve them on the side. Fabulous.

This is food for lovers, not small children. Tuck them into bed, light a few candles, and come together to enjoy a terrific day end finale. Enjoy every nibble.

Ingredients

Crust

1/2 cup of butter (1 stick)

2 tbsp finely grated lime zest

1 3/4 cups flour

1 1/4 cup sugar

1 pinch of salt

Lime curd

1/2 cup butter (1 stick)

3/4 cup sugar

1/3 cup lime juice

3 tbsp lime zest

Pinch of salt

6 egg yolks

Topping

3 pints of blueberries

1/4 cup red current jelly

Method

Make the crust:

Melt butter in sauce pan over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp zest and let stand for 5 minutes.
Mix the flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl.
Pour the butter into the bowl slowly, stirring with a fork as you go. When dough comes together, transfer to a tart pan and press it in evenly. Prick with a fork throughout.
Cover with foil and pie weights/beans, and bake for 2o minutes. Remove foil and weights, and then bake for another 10 - 20 minutes, until light brown. Remove and cool on a rack.

Make the lime curd:

Melt butter on medium in a saucepan.
Remove from heat and add sugar, lime juice, lime zest, and salt. Whisk, and then whisk in yolks until smooth.
Cook on low heat, whisking constantly. This takes about 12 - 15 minutes. It is ready when it has thickened enough to leave a trail on the back of a wooden spoon. You will feel it thickening as you whisk. Do not allow this to boil.
Strain immediately. Cool to room temperature and then chill.

Put it all together:

Heat red currant jelly on low heat in a small sauce pan, until liquefied. Remove from heat and reserve.
Pour the lime curd into the cooled tart. Scatter blueberries across the top of the lime curd. Brush blueberries with red currant jelly. Chill and serve.

Win A Copy of Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods

2010-06-12T23:31:00.001-04:00

Shopping and eating locally are not as straight forward as they should be. It is far more convenient to buy a banana for 10 cents that traveled 1,000 miles to my stomach than it is to find and purchase an apple from a farm less than 30 minutes from my house. There's a lot of reasons for this. Subsidized agriculture. Cheap, foreign oil. Treasury Desks.

Moreover, once local food is found, it can be equally challenging to know what to do with it. Not all of us are a whiz with Asian Greens or Chard, and learning to cook with all things local can be quite a learning curve. Moreover, learning how to clean, store, and prepare local food is a pickle; it is not shelf-stable and does not confirm to common convention.

I can't change the big stuff, but I can try to manage myself. My contributions are simple, and I do what I can. Most nights I cook. I shop at the farmers markets and take Umami Girl's advice seriously. We helped to found a CSA. But at the end of the day, I need to start building more resources to help support my goal to eat locally.

Enter Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods. For those of you familiar with Edible Magazines, available for free across the country, get ready to enjoy. The book divides up nicely by geography, drilling down on what is available where, who sells it, how to store it, while all the way telling stories and making learning fun and breezy. Then there are the recipes for using these local foods, which are fabulous. They are separated by season, with notes on location. Finally,the photography is impressive as it is instructional. All in all one of the best books on eating locally that I have come across in my searches.

Want to win a copy? Comment below and tell me more about how you are trying to eat locally. What are you challenges, peeves, triumphs, and stories? Contest ends June 30, 2010. Winner will be chosen randomly and notified shortly thereafter.

DIY: Sesame Noodles

2010-06-04T19:20:00.014-04:00

No, they don't have to come from Joy Luck.

Sesame noodles are easy to prepare, last forever in the fridge, and are ready in under 15 minutes. Bring them to a party and you will be the favored guest. Bring them to the dinner table, and you will be graced with ooh's and ah's befitting a far more elaborate meal. Served cold with a some veggies, chicken, or tofu, it's one of my favorite summer dishes.

This recipe comes from The Black Dog Summer on the Vineyard Cookbook, one of the best seasonal cookbooks I've ever used. I love their pictures, stories, and recipes, and recommend it highly.

A couple of things to keep in mind when making this dish:

It makes a lot of sauce. A LOT of it. My advice is to let the noodles sit and chill in the whole thing for an hour or two, so they absorb the sauce. Then strain the noodles and save the remaining sauce for just about anything under the sun including roasted vegetables, marinades, or even another batch of noodles. The sauce should last for 2 weeks in the fridge.
You can really pair this with just about anything, but I think a firmer companion is your best bet. Such as the aforementioned grilled chicken, extra firm tofu, shrimp, cucumbers, carrots, or celery. These choices all complement the soft texture of the noodles, and also provide a nice cling for the sauce.
Feel free to make peanut noodles by swapping peanut butter for tahini, and peanut oil for sesame oil. Same measurements apply.
Got picky eaters or folks with allergies? Reserve a portion of the cooked noodles, slather them in butter, grated cheese, and pepper. Top with whatever you were going to use for the sesame noodles and you have happy campers and cookers.

Leave the Peking Duck for the Chinese restaurants; this recipe is one to make and cherish in your own kitchen. Enjoy.

Sesame Noodles

Adapted from the Black Dog Summer on the Vineyard Cookbook

Ingredients

1 lb fresh or dried egg noodles

1 cup tahini

1 cup hot water

1 cup grapeseed oil

1 cup tamari or soy sauce

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup cider or rice wine vinegar

1/4 - 1/2 cup chili oil, to your preference

2 tbsp dark sesame oil

5 cloves garlic, chopped

3 scallions, chopped

Optional:

Grilled chicken

Cucumbers

Broiled tofu

Method

Cook egg noodles per package instructions. Drain and strain. Add a drizzle of sesame oil to keep from sticking.
Pour tahini and hot water into a large bowl, and whisk until smooth.
Add grapeseed oil to the bowl. Whisk. Add tamari/soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar, one at a time, blending with a whisk after each addition.
Add chili oil and taste for spiciness.
Add sesame oil and garlic. Blend.
Add noodles to sauce and allow to sit for at least 15 minutes. Serve with scallions and whatever else pleases you.

Serves 4

Food For Thought: To Everything, Turn, Turn, Turn

2010-05-30T22:22:00.020-04:00

What's in season?

Such a simple question has become so complicated. In our 24x7 world, where everything is available anytime, is there even such thing as 'in season' any more? It begs questions about my questions.

Try the following quiz. Answer each on a scale of 1 - 10, 1 being absolutely not and 10 being absolutely yes. Depending on what your answers are to these questions, it seems like you can make better choices, and live with them. , "When you say in season, do you mean...":

A) ...produce grown outdoors?

My response:
7. I like my food food grown outdoors but recogize that sometimes a hothouse is necessary. A lab, not so much tolerance from me.

B) ...produce grown in soil? If not, can you tolerate hydroponics or other means of production?

My response:
8. I am hesitant about hydroponics and other unconventional farming methods. This is mostly due to my own lack of knowledge relating to the techniques, and further lack of time to research them properly.

C) ...produce grown nearby? How do you define it? How do you know?

My response:
7. I prefer my food grown nearby, but recognize that I cannot always get what I want or need, and as a busy mom must occassionaly give in to my own constraints and limitations. So my rule is, look for local first, and after that anything from the US or Canada goes.
PS: This tool from Epicurious is pretty helpful guide to question C; it provides a nice geographical overview of what is gowing, and when. I recommend it as a simple way of keeping up with the farms.

D) ...produce grown without the aid of airplanes, ships, pesticides, sprays, other petroleum products? If not, are you limited by what you can eat?

My response:
7. See C. I recognize that some of what my family eats comes from a long distance. I accept that as a means to and end, that being eating fresh food. I would be more than willing to pay extra for this indulgence. As for sprays, etc I try to avoid anything that has been through this process, but sometimes do not have enough knowledge to make that call. I always wash my fruits and vegetables in a special rinse, and take time to make sure they are clean before using them.

E) ...produce that was picked within the last 5 - 7 days prior to sale? If not, how long can it sit in storage or on a shelf before you call it quits?

My response:

7. Yeah, OK it is important that it was picked recently. But for things like apples which are naturally shelf stable, I am more lenient.

Sadly, even after all this soul searching and self-awareness it is nearly impossible to cross-reference this knowledge with the actual choices I make at the market. For most produce today, there are no answers to these questions. The information is simply unavailable. And so that brings me to my final point, which is that more often than not, when inquiring about seasonality, we need a better epistological model. You can know yourself and your limits. But if the subject (fruits and vegetables) are unknowable, then we are presented with quite a philosophical conundrum. If I feel strong tendancies toward absolutely yes for any or all of these questions, the only way to confirm, to know that I am adhereing to my own rules is to pick it from the farm myself. And folks, that is not a practial way to live, at least for most of us in contemporary western society. So compromises need to be made, controls instilled, and a healthy dose of faith applied. Without it, we are not only without a sense of season, but an inability to reason.

On The List: Zatar

2010-05-28T16:45:00.014-04:00

Zatar is a mixture of sesame, sumac, hyssop, and other spices, finely ground together into a tapestry of taste and texture. It imparts a warm, lemony, and earthy taste, unlike anything else I have ever sampled, and works well on roasted vegetables, baked pita bread, and all manners of meat. Zatar is a great solution to the mid-week cooking blah's, where it adds tang and surprise to the "are we having that again" peanut gallery. It also doubles nicely for holiday meals, given that so much of the sum of its parts have historic and religious import. For example:

Sesame: A wonderful seed that has been around since biblical days, although not mentioned explicitly in the Hebrew or Christian bibles. It is repeatedly referenced in the Koran, especially as sesame oil. It is also used as part of the mourning ritual:

"Malik said, 'A woman whose husband has died should anoint her eyes with olive oil and sesame oil and the like of that since there is no perfume in it.' " Hadith - Muwatta 29.107

Sumac: A powder made from the purple leaves of the Mid Eastern sumac tree, one much like the one in the Terebinth of Morah, which landmarked where Abraham traveled in Genesis.

Hyssop: There seems to be a lot of debate over which plant the bible actually was referencing as hyssop; the more common theories seem to place their bets on Syrian Oregano or marjoram. It is often referenced with purification and cleansing. In Pslams 51:7, after King David has gone to Bathsheba, he asks for compassion.

"Be gracious unto me, O God, according to Thy mercy; according to the multitude of Thy compassions blot out my transgressions. Wash me thoroughly from mine iniquity, and cleanse me from my sin.For I know my transgressions; and my sin is ever before me. Against Thee, Thee only, have I sinned, and done that which is evil in Thy sight; that Thou mayest be justified when Thou speakest, and be in the right when Thou judgest.Behold, I was brought forth in iniquity, and in sin did my mother conceive me. Behold, Thou desirest truth in the inward parts; make me, therefore, to know wisdom in mine inmost heart. Purge me with hyssop, and I shall be clean; wash me, and I shall be whiter than snow."

I order mine online; you can find it at nuts online (my favorite for bulk dry goods) or amazon. You can also purchase it in most Middle Eastern grocery stores; either way, just don't give up the search easily. This spice mix has more aliases than a terrorist watch list, and is also known as zaatar, zatr, zahatar, or satar. Once you have it, it keeps well in a dark canister for about a year.

Below is my Friday night standard Shabbat dinner; I find the zatar gives the chicken and potatoes a nice zing and terrific color, and hope you enjoy it as much as my family does.

Zatar Chicken a la Noonie

Ingredients

1 4 - 5 lb chicken, washed, patted dry, and cut into 8 pieces

1/4 cup + 2 tbsp olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1 oz zatar

2 lemons, zested and juiced

1 lb of fingerling potatoes, cleaned and scrubbed

Method

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Sprinkle olive oil on chicken. Massage kosher salt and black pepper into the chicken.
Sprinkle chicken with zatar and massage gently into the meat. Place in roasting pan.
Sprinkle lemon zest, less 1 tsp, on top of chicken pieces, and then add the lemon juice.
Roast the chicken for 1 hour. While cooking, prepare the potatoes. In a bowl, combine potatoes, olive oil, and 1 tbsp kosher salt. Massage thoroughly. Add remaining 1 tsp of lemon zest to the mix. Set aside.
After the chicken has cooked for 30 minutes, add the potatoes to the roasting pan. Continue to cook for the remaining 30 minutes.
At the end, turn on the broiler for an an additional 5 minutes. Remove pan from oven, allow chicken to rest for 10 - 20 minutes under foil. Serve warm.

Note: You can also throw in green beans for the last 10 minutes of cooking. They work well with zatar, and the chicken fat and olive oil will cook them beautifully.

Photo courtesy of Ken Chen

DIY: Pissaldiere

2010-05-14T21:23:00.027-04:00

Olives and anchovies and onions, oh my. While Pissaldiere is to not for the shy nor that first date, it is a wonderful rustic pizza that imparts terrific flavor and texture, very much like it's distant cousin, french onion soup.

I adapted it from Joanne Harris' terrific cookbook, My French Kitchen, a terrific and underrated tome full of some of the most beautiful food photography in print. Whenever I read it, I feel like I vicariously vacationing in France. I often give this book as a housewarming or birthday present, as the recipes are as good as the the vibe.

A couple of words on working with this recipe:

Use the best olive oil you can find. The anchovies, olives, onions, and dough are all enhanced by the fruity effect of the oil, and substitutions will diminish the final dish. I was lucky enough to have a friend who has a relative who has a friend in Italy, and they go there once a year to harvest and press the olives. Nice work if you can get it. Anyway, they allowed me to purchase some very tasty oil which I purposed for this recipe, and it worked beautifully. If you do not have such a friend or bottle on hand, most Spanish or Italian imports will be fine, and are readily found in your grocery store. Extra virgin is fine, although a less refined press might work well with the strong flavors in this recipe.

You are baking a simple yeast bread for this recipe. Get out your french pin, as anything with handles is tough to manage. Basic white flour is all that is required here - this is a peasant dish. Note: If you are pressed for time, feel free to buy store bought pizza dough, which I suspect will work just fine in a recipe like this.

The onions need to be sliced thin - 1/8 of an inch, tops. As in get out your mandoline if you have one. You can try a food processor, but if you do, push the food through rapidly, to ensure a thinner cut.

Thyme is the unsung hero in this recipe. If you can find it fresh, all the better.

Ms. Harris is very picky about the anchovies. She highly recommends the dried kind, which are hard to find and a little extra work. I couldn't locate any on short notice, and so I used La Squista, an imported Italian brand you can find at most Italian grocery stores. Delicious, as are most anchovies that are 1) packed in olive oil, 2) packaged in glass, and 3) imported from Spain, Italy, or South America.

This dish is delicious served on it's own or with a simple green salad. For dessert, try one of Ms. Harris' eponymous chocolats, also found in her lovely book.

Pissaldiere

Adapted from My French Kitchen, by Joanne Harris and Fran Warde

Ingredients

topping

1/4 cup olive oil
3 1/2 lbs yellow onions, thinly sliced

1 tsp sugar

4 oz shredded Gruyere cheese (optional)
2 teaspoons fresh thyme
20 - 30 oil pitted mediteranean olives

1 small glass jar of anchovies (about 15), sliced in halves, lengthwise
olive oil for drizzling

dough

.50 oz/ 2 packets active dry yeast

2/3 cup warm water

1 tsp + 2 tsp sugar

2 cups white flour

4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing

1 tsp salt

Method

Saute onions in oil on medium low heat for 45 minutes. Add 1 tsp thyme. Add sugar and cook until lightly carmelized, about 10 - 15 more minutes.
Make dough. Dissolve yeast in warm water. Proof with 1 tsp sugar. In a large bowl combine yeast mixture and remaining ingredients. Knead and then let rise for 30 min.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Form dough into a round ball, and roll out into a rectangle. Place on a baking sheet.
Brush dough with olive oil. Sprinkle with gruyere cheese, thyme, and onions. Criss cross the anchovies into decorative 'x' designs, and place olives in between.
Bake for 20 - 25 minutes. Serve warm.

On The List: Yeast

2010-05-06T20:44:00.037-04:00

My neighbor called to tell me she had a yeast problem, and I'm all 'I like you and everything but shouldn't you talk to your doctor?' Turns out the problem was above the waistline, in the kitchen.

If bread is life, yeast is life force. It causes dough to rise and literally breathe, and yields delicious results. Cinnamon buns. Challah. Coffee cake. Parker House rolls. Bread sticks. Donuts. Are you drooling yet? But yeast can also be a bit daunting for the uninitiated. This post will attempt to enlighten on how to buy, store, and bake with yeast. Once you get the hang of it, it turns out to be a lot of fun to work with, and you'll be telling your friends who in turn will want to learn, and the whole yeast experience will become gloriously...infectious.

Buying it

Unless otherwise specified, most recipes call for dry, active rise yeast, commonly found in the baking goods aisle of your local grocery. It is often packaged in small packets of three, although buying it in bulk is much cheaper and more cost effective. Each packet is about 1/4 ounce in volume. Active dry yeast must be proofed (see below), and then employs two dough rises.

Before you grab that packet of yeast, double check to make sure it is not the Rapid Rise variety, which is only used for very specific (and often not very good) recipes. It is a time saver, as you do not need to proof it and can add it directly to ingredients. However, please note that this product has been genetically engineered to accomplish this feat. Generally, I find it results in an overly dense crumb, invariably made soggy buy whatever is baked on top of it per said not very good recipe. Rapid Rise yeast is also sold in small jars and labeled as "Bread Machine" yeast.

Fresh yeast can be found in your dairy aisle, often near the eggs. It is sold in little cubes, or cakes, and yields delicious results - by far the tastiest choice. Fresh yeast and active dry yeast have similar usage and cooking cycles, and can be used interchangeably.

1 packet of yeast = 1/4 oz = 2 1/4 tsp = 1 fresh yeast cake (.6 oz)

For those of you completely off the grid, you can make your own yeast by adding equal parts flour and water. Cover, leave in a warm space for a few days, and you will come back to a smelly mess also known as wild yeast, or a starter.

Storing it

Different storage and shelf lives apply:

Active dry:

Packets will have expirations printed on them, and are probably good for one year past this date. Store at room temperature.
If you buy it in bulk and then open the package, the clock starts ticking. It will keep in the fridge for 6 months, and the freezer for 12 months. In both cases, make sure it is tightly sealed. If you leave it at room temperature, it will gradually decrease it's potency at a rate of about 10%/month.

Fresh yeast cakes:

It should have an expiration date on it, usually for a few weeks after it was packed. You can also store it in the freezer for 4 months (you will need to defrost it before using).

Using it

Let's assume you use Active Dry or Fresh Yeast - you need to test it before adding, also known as proofing. Although I am sure you have taken my storage tips to heart, it is important to know that your yeast is active, and ready for use. Otherwise you tend to wait around a lot and waste much eggs and flour.

Proofing yeast is one of those things you need a visual on. It really is not hard, but unless you know what it is supposed to look like, a written description will not suffice. Many concise/lazy/patronizing authors will tell you to proof the yeast, end of story unless of course you have a friendly neighbor who can help you out. Otherwise you feel pretty silly. I know, because I remember learning myself; it took me 7 tries to get it right, and even then I was not sure it was correct, having no proper frame of reference. And so gentle reader, allow me to show you the way home.

First, check the directions for the yeast to water ratio. Turn your kitchen tap on, and put it on the warmest setting. Once it is heated, add required amount of water to a doubly sized measuring cup (ex: use a 2 cup tool if 1 cup of water is required).If you have a thermometer, shoot for 105 - 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Add the dry yeast and one teaspoon of sugar. Whisk (maybe for 5 - 10 seconds). Within a minute it should look like the picture on the left, just a little foam on top.

After about 10 minutes, the foam should be doubled or greater, proof that it is ready to be used in a recipe. It should look like the picture to the right. You add the entire contents of your measuring cup, foam and all.

What if it doesn't work? It happens. A number of things can adversely affect yeast rising. Extremely humid conditions can throw it off. The water may be the wrong temperature. The yeast may have expired; it keeps active in Egyptian tombs for thousands of years, but not so shelf stable after a while.

Finally, here are links to some of my favorite recipes that use yeast. Enjoy, and comment below to tell me more about your own experiences working with it.

How Does My Garden Grow: Strawberry Mint Iced Tea

2010-04-24T03:52:00.039-04:00

I have no patience for hulling. It looks nice and all, but honestly, when you have a 4 year old chanting for food, you want to get the job done as quickly as possible, which means decisively lopping off the top part of the fruit, leaves and all. Anything less in an exercise in ritalin.

That being said, I am always wondering what to do with the strawberry tops. My cat seems to like them; she can lick the cut ends for hours. But other than that, they are kind of like the infamous (albeit inverted) muffin stumps from Seinfeld - nobody wants them. Until now.

I have discovered that they make a very nice tea. Next time you have a few strawberry tops, give the leaves a sniff; they are floral, fragrant, and sweet, all good characteristics for tea leaves. And it's a nice nod to thrift, as well as a tasty pick me up.

A couple of notes on this recipe:

This is the strawberry season of all strawberry seasons. Here in NJ, they will be ready to pick in a few weeks. But the US crop is largely dominated by California and Florida growers; this year, weather conditions have forced the two states' growing seasons to overlap, resulting in supermarkets flooded with inexpensive, delicious fruit. A wonderful change after a winter of $8 for a pint of cardboard tasting third cousins removed.
Mint can always be purchased, but really consider growing it. Like strawberries, it grows well anywhere whether a field or a container garden. Mint is incredibly hearty, requires little care or maintenance, and makes everything around it green and fragrant.
You can sweeten this tea pretty much any way you please. Simple syrup works well, as it does in any beverage. Agave also works, but it needs to be diluted with hot water first, to thin it out. Personally, I have been experimenting with liquid stevia and really enjoying it. It's an herb (very common in Latin America, where they grow it like basil), has no calories, no glycemic impact, and the liquid cuts the bitterness found in the powder form.

This tea is best made with fresh ingredients, and is a nice portents of great things to come in the garden. Enjoy.

Strawberry Mint Iced Tea

Makes 4 cups of tea

Ingredients

10 fresh strawberries

5 fresh mint leaves, crushed

4 1/4 cups hot water

1/4 cup sugar or 10 drops of liquid stevia

Method

Remove leaves from strawberries. Common sense tip: Discard any leaves that seem molded or mildewed. Add with mint to a small infuser.
Pour 4 cups of hot water over the infuser and let steep in a tea pot for 10 minutes.
Fill a pitcher with ice cubes.
Mix strawberries (without leaves) in a blender (you may need to add 1 tbsp water here, to get it to liquify properly). Strain and add to pitcher.
Heat remaining 1/4 cup of water. Dissolve sugar in water and and add to pitcher. Alternatively, add the liquid stevia.
Pour hot tea into the pitcher with ice cubes. Stir, and serve.

Images:

Simon Howden / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Michelle Meiklejohn / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

In Vitro Meat

2010-04-20T21:33:00.006-04:00

Artificially manufactured meat. I have been meaning to post about it for a while but needed some time to, um, digest this.

The Telegraph reported last November on a scientific breakthrough that allows us humans to grow meat in a lab. Not grow animals, just the muscle and tissues. So nothing ever is slaughtered/dies, but then again no being ever lives. Here is a grueling excerpt:

Mark Post, professor of physiology at Eindhoven University, told The Sunday Times: “What we have at the moment is rather like wasted muscle tissue. We need to find ways of improving it by training it and stretching it, but we will get there.
“This product will be good for the environment and will reduce animal suffering. If it feels and tastes like meat, people will buy it.
“You could take the meat from one animal and create the volume of meat previously provided by a million animals.”

The PETA people actually support this, as do a number of environmental groups. It certainly takes the punch out of the vegan parry, "I never eat anything that had a face." My gut (sorry) instinct is never, no way, but I have a feeling it is going to become commonplace, and soon. What do you think? Comments below please.

Image: Maggie Smith / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Paella Party

2010-04-18T01:25:00.033-04:00

Every Friday night I make a big family dinner, with fresh bread, a roasted chicken, and string beans. Every Friday night I make a big family dinner, with fresh bread, a roasted chicken, and string beans. Every Friday night I make a big family dinner, with fresh bread, a roasted chicken, and string beans.

It makes me a very dull girl.

Anyway, this week we were having guests, and I was behind as usual. As I cursed under (and let's face it, above) my breath, I had a realization. This wasn't any fun. And I wanted a good time, not just for me, but for all of us. Spring is finally here after a long, crappy winter, and it seemed like a little fresh air was in order. And then it hit me - paella.

Paella is one of those dishes that seems a lot more complicated than it really is. It uses simple but easily found ingredients, cooks in less than 30 minutes, and serves family style. Paella is tasty, colorful, and when done right looks like confetti in a pot. In short, Paella is a party.

Here are a couple of tricks that have served me well when making this dish:

Use a large, cast iron, dutch oven. Ladies, this is the time to bat your eyelashes and ask your handsome husband/boyfriend/girlfriend/neighbor/boy next door that you wanted to talk to but could not find an excuse to do so, to lug your super heavy Le Creuset out of the closet and onto the stove. It goes from the burner into the oven, and you need something that can take the heat. Well made stainless steel would probably work. I would not recommend using anything non-stick, or thinly made.
Paella is all about the rice. You can try long grain rice, but beware that it will not work well with a paella recipe. You need something starchier, say an aborrio, short grain, or medium grain. Personally, I keep the latter on hand in the pantry; medium grain rice is inexpensive and readily available in the Spanish foods section of your market. I like the Goya brand.
Use a dry white wine. I prefer sherry or vermouth.
Try and find a high quality sausage. Chorizo is the traditional choice. But I like the chicken andouille kinds that are out there; they are healthier and easier on the stomach. Looking for a kosher brand? Try Neshama, which is kosher and organic. If you can find me a grass fed, pasture raised brand, please post a comment about it below.

I made my paella and because it came together so quickly and easily, I didn't need that extra pill before the guests arrived. Everyone enjoyed themselves, and we all had a lovely evening. Oh, and ps: clean up was a breeze because this is a one pot meal, and Le Creuset washes like a dream. All just in time for The Shining's 30th anniversary - maybe The Overlook can start serving it in the dining room, cheer the place up a little.

Chicken and Andouille Paella

Adapted from Marc Bitman's How to Cook Everything

Serves 4

Ingredients

3 1/2 cups of chicken stock

Pinch of saffron

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

4 bone in, skin on chicken thighs

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tbsp chopped garlic

fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

8 oz chorizo or andouille sausage (I use a chicken version)

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup tomato puree

2 tsp paprika (smoked if you've go it, sweet if you don't)

8 roasted red peppers, rough chopped (piquillo are best if you can find them)

2 cups medium grain rice

Chopped, fresh cilantro leaves

Method

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Place stock and saffron in a sauce pan and warm.
In a large dutch oven (preferably cast iron), cook chicken in oil until deeply browned on both sides. Add onion and garlic and cook on medium until soft.
Add chorizo, wine, tomato puree, and paprika. Bring to boil and cook for 5 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Add the peppers. Add rice, scattering it evenly across the pan. Cook for 1 - 2 minutes. Add the warm stock and stir until just combined.
Place pan in oven and bake for 15 minutes. If the rice seems dry but not done, add a little stock or water. Turn off the oven and let the pot sit in there for another 5 - 15 minutes.
Remove pan from oven, sprinkle with cilantro, and serve.

Rethinking shopping

2010-04-13T20:53:00.031-04:00

I admit it, I am a grocery shopping addict. A real fiend. It is my go to excuse when I need to get out of the house, which we chose in part because it was across the street from the local A&P. I love perusing the produce and imagining the possibilities in the spice section. There is something so hopeful about the whole expedition; when I am at the market I can envision making anything. In my mind while seeking flour, I can assemble tall cakes in a single bound. When the farmer's markets open, I am shopping for truth, justice, and the American way.

My preferences include smaller, local/regional stores, which are in abundance here in Hoboken. It is not uncommon to find me gazing at apples around 9 am, then at another store for fish at noon, and back to market again after dinner for staples. It is not that I am unorganized about shopping, I just like to buy different things at different places. The store with the best strawberries may not have a seafood counter or carry toilet paper. And if my daughter comes along, they better have the right band aids or it is going to be a loooong afternoon.

That being said, I am rethinking shopping. The uptick of coops, CSA's, online stores,and other mechanisms are pushing me in this direction, and there are distinct advantages to buying food like this, including:

Quality: It seems like I am getting higher quality food. My meat, poultry, and eggs are grass fed and pasture raised. The produce is beyond organic, with local farms adhering to higher and less costly standards.
Safety: I know exactly where my food originates from; it hasn't been centralized or merged or anything that would make it difficult to track. It also comforts me knowing how close I am to the source, as opposed to the supermarkets, where there is a little too much mystery behind the cellophane.
Convenience: I really like having things delivered to the house. It's very retro and makes me want to put on pearls and a circle pin. When the eggs and cheese arrive, they go right in the fridge, with no crappy check out aisle or customer card. And while I was skeptical of the whole meat in the mail concept, it has turned out to be one of the best choices I have ever made.
Efficiency: There is something to be said about buying in bulk. Obviously there are cost savings involved, but more important is the time. I use chick peas two or three times a week; buying a five pound bag of them means that I only have to shop for them once a in a blue moon.

Then there is the whole locavore argument; I am torn here, because on the one hand, my food is largely local. I get my eggs and cheese from a farm in PA. Our CSA will provide me with fruits and vegetables from an in state farm from June - October. And even though my meat is delivered, it originates from farms within 90 miles of my house. But this means less business for local businesses here in my little city, and that is a problem. They do not have all the products I want, but on the other hand do have a store front here in town that pays taxes and is part of the community. It is an urban dilemma, and I don't see any full reconciliation of these issues until the products sold through alternative markets become more in demand, more mainstream.

So for now, I will continue with my CSA and coops and online sources. But I am still shopping locally for things that are best found around the corner, like bread, flowers, and Superman band-aids.

How about you? Have you changed your grocery shopping ways? Leave a comment below and tell me about it.

Image: Suat Eman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Gefilte Fish

2010-03-28T21:02:00.010-04:00

Whenever I think about gefilte fish, I always think of my husband. Raised Catholic and from Boston, he only knew what he knew. So when dragged him to my family seder in Brooklyn that first year, I should have probably prepped him. Not only was he subjected to the BQE and my chaotic family, but then there was the dinner itself. When the gefilte fish came out in all its glory, he seemed honestly shocked. Then he looked like he was sure some monumental prank was being perpetuated, as if the family was pulling a fast one. Fish from a jar. With jelly all over it. Served cold. As he looked around for Alan Funt, I knew I would need to make some adjustments.

Despite this, he married me and we began to create our own traditions for Passover. We found a Hagaddah that worked for us and teamed up to get everything ready. Generally, I cook, and he cleans - this works for us on most occasions. One year I decided to chuck the jars and make my own gefilte fish. I ordered the fish, picked it up, brought it home, and feeling like the little red hen began to cook. Except I forgot to ask them to grind it...but no worries, I had received a food processor as a wedding gift. How hard could it be.

Lesson learned, chopping fish is not easy. Whether you do it the old fashioned way (with multiple cleavers and all your friends and relatives in a small apartment kitchen in Brooklyn) or with a La Machine, it is messy, time consuming, and downright ugly. First, I chopped the fish into 2 inch squares and added them to the machine. After about five seconds of the most terrifying noise ever heard, it started to smell like it was burning. I grabbed the plug, dumped it all out, and started again. In the end, it took me over 2 hours to grind that fish at home, and two minutes to realize that I would never do it again. My husband wisely stayed out of the kitchen.

I let the mixture sit overnight as directed, giving myself some time to cool down and my husband an opportunity to clean up the ground fish that found its way into every corner of our kitchen. I am telling you, this man is a miracle - he actually got it all up - left to my own devices I would have just called Terminix. The next day was a new day, and as I put two large stockpots up to boil, I was feeling more confident. Until the stock. Now, I had asked for the heads and bones per the recipe, but was not prepared to actually handle them. So creepy looking and sharp to the touch, I could not believe I was going to use this as food. To calm myself, I sang the fish head song (you know it..fish heads, fish heads, roly poly fish heads. Fish heads, fish heads, eat them up, yum.). That seemed to do the trick, as I triumphantly added the fish to the pots.

Later on, my husband went to to clean up, he was pleasantly surprised to see me calm, with 20 or so delicious gefiltes waiting to be eaten. He went to clean the stockpots and let out a little scream, not expecting the fish carcasses to cascade down into the sink, bobbing about like little sea demons. I bet he missed the jarred kind that year.

Anyway, we have now gotten into a better routine. I know to get the fish ground at the fish monger, he knows what to expect in the pot. Both of us really enjoy the results, and our guests are always surprised and grateful to have this relatively simple dish, if you know the tricks. Enjoy and happy Passover.

Gefilte Fish
From The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook

Ingredients
For the gefilte fish balls
1 (1 1/2-pound) fillet of whitefish and (1 1/2-pound) fillet of carp or pike (at fish store, ask for whole fish, filleted and skinned. Retain the heads and bones. Many stores will also grind the fish for you)
2 large onions (about 2 cups when grated; don't tamp it down)
1 stalk celery
1/2 medium carrot
6 eggs, beaten
4 teaspoons sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/8 teaspoon pepper
3/4 cup corn oil
1 cup matzo meal

For the cooking
Heads and bones from fish
4 medium onions, peeled and quartered
2 stalks celery, trimmed and chopped into 3-inch pieces
2 medium carrots, peeled

Method
In a food processor or grinder, grind fish (refrigerate heads and bones for later use), 2 onions, 1 stalk celery, and half a carrot. (If you use a food processor, make sure you leave no large pieces of fish or bones; you may want to transfer the mixture, bit by bit, into a wooden bowl, and go over it vigorously with a hand chopper.)
Place fish mixture in a large bowl, and add eggs, sugar, salt, pepper, and corn oil, mixing thoroughly with a wire whisk. Stir in matzo meal, and continue to mix until everything is thoroughly blended. Refrigerate for 1 hour or more (longer, even overnight, is better).
Fill 2 large stockpots three-quarters full of water, and bring to a vigorous boil. In each, throw in half the fish heads and bones, 2 onions, half the celery, and a carrot. Divide batter into 12 patties of equal size. (Don't worry that your batter is a little loose; it has to be that way to keep your gefilte fish light.) Transfer each patty to a large cooking spoon, shape into an oval, and very gently lower it into the boiling water. Put 6 in each pot. Lower heat and simmer for 1 1/2 hours.
Remove fish balls and carrots from pots, and refrigerate on a covered plate. Discard everything else. Serve chilled with red and/or white horseradish. Slice carrots for garnish.

On the List: From China With Love

2010-03-23T22:02:00.035-04:00

Hi all, I'm back...sorry for the delay in updating the blog. My son has cerebral palsy, and he has been undergoing some fairly intense therapy. Managing that has consumed every moment of my free time for the past 3 months. During that time, winter has turned to spring and the signs are everywhere. Flower buds, crocuses, lamb in the markets, artichokes, strawberries for less than $10/box of oldy, moldy berries...all good things that remind me of the equinox and all its wonder.

One thing that comes with spring is the new growing season. And while I will be blogging about all the good things that come with this, it also reminds of me of some less than wonderful trends that have emerged over the past decades. Specifically, I would like to discuss the advent of Chinese agricultural exports, and what it means to those who eat them. Let me preface this with the fact that I am not some lunatic fringe, shut down trade agreements, I hate those lying commies gal. To the contrary, I tend to swing toward classic, liberal economics. Moreover, I admire China and its people, and predict great things for them. But I do advocate a more pragmatic and cautious approach when it comes to their agricultural exports, both raw and processed.

There are the more obvious gaps, such as the great infant formula horror of 2008, when it was revealed that regular practice included lacing baby food with melamine, an additive used to make plastics and other industrial products. No doubt you are also familiar with the fact that the same additive was found in Chinese cat and dog food exports a year earlier, resulting in many animals dying from renal failure. The third time is a charm in 2010, when milk was pulled off shelves in China containing...melamine. Get the picture?

There is a distinct and troubling pattern of repeating past mistakes and inability/refusal to undertake true quality control of food products. Now consider that China has become an agricultural world leader over the past 2 decades; more and more produce grown in and exported from China is landing in US supermarkets, often as the sole purchasing option. There are legitimate fair trade concerns, environmental problems, as well as quality assurance and health issues at stake. As the Washington Post recently reported:

The FDA, responsible for inspecting some types of food from 130 countries, last year was deluged with 21 million shipments of food imports, among them 199,000 from China worth about $2.3 billion. FDA inspectors refused 298 food shipments from China in the first four months of this year: They included catfish laden with banned antibiotics, mushrooms laced with illegal pesticides, and others. The rejection rate for Chinese goods is about 25 times that for Canadian goods.

While not definitive, following are some key products that I have been following:

Garlic: Gilroy is in trouble. China increased its exports to the US 35% between 2004 and 2008. It's a $48 million dollar business. (Source: UN Comtrade). It is the US's largest fresh vegetable import from China, and let's not forget that it is often dried and then used in garlic powder and other spices, as well as pastes. Some additional health concerns include reports of growing garlic in sewage, using chlorine to treat the garlic, and excessive spraying.
Eggplant: China is the top global producer of eggplant, one of the most highly sprayed vegetables when produced commercially. There is also a lot of controversy about a new GMO version which actually produces its own insecticides.
Pine nuts: On the web, there are periodic complaints about eating pine nuts resulting in a metallic, bitter after taste that lasts for weeks. This only seems to occur with pine nuts grown in China.
Fish and shellfish: China has a huge aquaculture infrastructure; their seafood comes from ponds, and is fraught controvery. Let's see, again reports of it being raised in untreated sewage, use of illegal antibiotics, carcinogens, mercury, DDT,...the list goes on. The water pollution problems in China are significant. The most common seafood exports (my perspective) from China include catfish, eel, shrimp, carp, crab, and salmon.
Soy: Wow, their soy beans are literally toxic, and they are everywhere you don't expect them. All products, whole and processed. This means soy milk, infant formula, nutrition bars, supplements, etc. Read the Cornucopia Report.

This problem is compounded with the fact that you will never see a "Made in China" label on agricultural products. So what to do? Well, always try to buy locally and seasonally is an obvious solution, but one that does not necessarily fit into everyone's personal philosophy and/or budget. More practical advice is to ask, ask, ask your produce manager about what you are purchasing. Most of them are pretty smart and have lots of information to share. If they tell you your produce is from China, buyer beware. Worse, if they give you a blank stare or flip answer, think twice about your purchases or even shopping there anymore.

Next, beware of processed foods. Chinese agricultural products sure are cheap. And abundant. When you buy that frozen dinner, pre-prepared meal, or even order at a restaurant, assume that any of the above are fair game as ingredients. Again, ask, ask, ask.

Finally, there are some items that you will likely not need to worry about, as China actually imports these items to supplement their own crops (despite policies that clearly have prioritized domestic production of these crops). You can be less concerned about wheat and rice. Chinese meat exports are prohibited in the US, but there are all kinds of weird arrangements regarding Chinese chicken imports (we grow it in the US, ship it to China for processing, and they send it back). For the politically minded, soybeans are a top US export to China, which gives us ongoing leverage not only from a trade perspective, but also from a security POV. Why do they need soy? To feed their fish, cows, pigs, chickens, and other animals...these are not grass fed, pasture raised creatures. But I do wonder if there is ever a soy shortage, will melamine will creep into their animals' diets?

Additional links

Expect more U.S.-China farm trade tension: economist

Agriculture in China

On the List: Milk and Homemade Hot Chocolate

2010-01-31T23:04:00.023-05:00

So does milk do a body good?

It really depends on who you ask. The whole foods people will tell you yes, as long as it is whole milk and minimally processed. Raw movement followers will only take it raw. Lactose intolerant folks have very real issues and need alternatives. Vegans are adamantly opposed to eating any animal product. Vegetarians seem split on the issue; it depends on how they practice.

Me, I am a fan. I like it with cookies, in fact I like it in cookies - when it comes to cooking and baking, milk inevitably smooths out a recipe like nothing else. Visit my fridge and you will find dairy all around, including cheese, milk, yogurt, ice cream, heavy cream, half and half, chocolate, and more. In addition to tasting great, milk is a super food. It is a great source of calcium, vitamins A and D, and other vitamins and minerals. Milk and milk products have been found to reduce tooth decay. It also is frequently cited as a combatant to a host of ills including osteoporosis, high blood pressure, diabetes, and colon cancer.

That being said, there is much controversy around milk, including the following issues:

Industrial farming
Industrial farming is a problem; that is one idea all the different foodie groups can get behind. There is a lot of play in the media on how this affects meat purchases, but far less conversation on milk and eggs. Suffice it to say that the same problems (environmental, humane, gastronomic, and health) pervade and are passed through the animals into the dairy products. Organic industrial milk is not much better than its mainstream counterparts; while the animals are not exposed to antibiotics, they are living in horrendous conditions and eating soy and corn 'vegetarian diets', both of which do not make for good food. Cows are ruminants; they need to be able to roam on pasture and eat the grasses that have naturally produced milk for many years. Organic milk does not guarantee these conditions.

Pasteurization and homogenization
Pasteurization is a process to eliminate bacteria in milk, usually caused from unclean conditions. The milk is boiled at various heats, rendering the milk more or less sterile. Pasteurization also contributes to longer shelf life for milk products. There is some controversy here, as some believe that any pasteurization decreases milks nutritional qualities. Others hold that the High Temperature Short Time process is the only acceptable form of pasteurization. Homogenization is a process that equally distributes cream with the rest of the milk; prior to it, folks would shake their milk bottle vigorously before pouring, to ensure cream did not collect at the top.

Milk pasteurization is required per most State regulations. It is a federal offense to transport raw (unpasteurized) milk across state lines. Homogenization is not legally required.

That being said, the raw milk movement has taken off in America. If you are willing to make the trip to purchase it at various farms across the country, you are in for a tasty treat.

Fat content
Whole, 1%, 2%, Skim...there are a lot of choices in the dairy case. The whole food movement believes that milk should be eaten in it's purest form, which means whole milk only. Lower fat alternatives are advocated by the American Heart Association and other like health organizations.

Vitamin D
Vitamin D is added to most industrially farmed milk; it is not added to grass fed or raw milk products.

Is it cruel to milk cows?
There is a lot of debate about this. Industrialized farming does seem cruel when it comes to milking cows. In order to give milk, they must be impregnated regularly. They give birth to calves but are not allowed to feed their young (who are fed a milk supplement by machine, and if they are male eventually sent to the veal crates). They are milked several times a day using machinery that is said to cause lesions and be uncomfortable for the animals. These practices are more likely to occur on large industrialized farms, which have the equipment and money necessary to implement large economy of scale production. Smaller farms may include some of these practices, but they do not have the capital nor the mandate to do so as fully as industrialized farms.

So what to do? If we had a backyard and I had my druthers, we would have a pasture for pet cows, but for now I have to make some practical choices for me and my family. We are dairy eaters and I will continue to use milk products for their heath and gastronomic benefits, albeit in moderation. I don't think it is necessary to drink milk with our meals, nor I do I include dairy products in every meal. As far as snacks go, I think cheese is a great choice for nibbling, but try to avoid anything over processed such as flavored milks, gogurt, or milk chocolate that uses corn syrup as an added ingredient.

That being said, I now shop much more carefully for dairy products. I buy grass fed, HSTS pasteurized, non-homogenized, whole milk. Try saying that 5 times fast. It is not easy to come by; I usually find it in the organic markets or Whole Foods. I like the Natural by Nature and Sky Top Farms brands. They are small farms within 150 miles of my home. The milk tastes like the milk I remember drinking as a child; it is creamy, with a light floral scent (I am guessing from the grass), and cooks beautifully. I kind of like shaking it before serving; it is a nice reminder of what I have chosen for my family and and excellent way to get my yaya's out.

When I cannot find this milk, my next stop is the Organic Valley brand. I like them because they actually make an effort to purchase grass fed milk from their cooperating farmers (mostly small farms). But it is not a requirement (120 days of annual pasture feeding is their standard), and you can taste the difference; it tastes like any other organic milk. This brand is homogenized and pasteurized, and is very readily available in most supermarkets and grocery stores across the US.

As a side note, I am not a fan of soy milk; it highly processed, estrogenic, and environmentally problematic. More on that in a future post, but here is a link to a recent piece by Umami Girl on the matter - I agreed with her completely. I do like coconut milk and use it regularly in my cooking and baking. Goat milk is another great alternative, but it does take some getting used to.

Below is one of my favorite milk treats, homemade hot chocolate with whipped cream. Once you choose your milk, enjoy every sip.

Note (4/15/10): Here is a great link to the Cornucopia Institute's dairy report. It describes the issues in much greater detail and also has a brand rating, which happily is consistent with my own analysis.

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Hot Chocolate With Whipped Cream

Ingredients

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup cocoa

2 cups milk (any kind will work)

1/2 cup cream

Method

Sift sugar and cocoa together and add to a small sauce pot. Add milk and turn heat on medium high. Sir constantly until all ingredients are blended (about 5 minutes).
Using an electric mixer, whip cream on high for 2 - 3 minutes, until stiff peaks form.
Pour hot cocoa into cups, top with whipped cream, and serve.

Image: Danilo Rizzuti / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Baking My Angst Away

2009-12-28T21:46:00.021-05:00

Hi. It's me again.

Sorry to bother you so late, but I really need to talk. I know you must be tired from a long day and that this kind of violates our protocol, but if I can just get a few minutes of your time.

You see, or rather you hear, my son will not sleep. He just won't rest and is up every 2 - 3 hours and the kid is 20 months old already and YES, YES, I KNOW! He's probably teething. We've talked about this before. It doesn't change the fact that my husband and I are becoming zombie mental cases with attitudes. And YES, I KNOW - he's just a little boy, but that does not ease my circadian rhythms none, understand? Oh, and yeah, I took an extra pill, I even almost gave him one. It doesn't seem to help either of us sleep.

Anyway, we're up again, cruising the kitchen for some comfort. The mixer makes too much noise and I am afraid I might hurt him if I go near the food processor. So I stand before you, my devoted and loyal oven, for a little comfort and plea for patience.

Nothing soothes my rumpled and crumpled soul like baking. Now with cooking, you add a little of this, a little of that and poof, you get dinner. But baking is a much more precise process. Of course you can improvise, as can an acrobat cycling across the high wire. But like that trained performer you best know what you're doing. An extra 5 minutes is the difference between caramelized and burned. Too much flour and you'll need a hacksaw to cut through your work. And then there is the tricky business of the egg white, cream, and yeast.

But the rewards of baking are far greater than the sum of the final product. It is the process that relaxes my body like a shiatsu massage. Rough day? Start kneading bread. Too much going on? Zest a lemon. The physical acts of baking are repetitive and require confidence, both of which calm me in a storm. And then there is the comfort in knowing that when I slowly cook egg yolks with sugar, it will turn into custard, or if I keep beating heavy cream it will whip into a delicious treat. I can count on it as sure as the sun will rise and the tide will come in.

Anyway, my son won't sleep. He is teething or growing or evil or something. It doesn't really matter why anymore, what matters is that we are exhausted. And I am on the edge. So the other morning, when duty wailed, I took him down to the kitchen with me, gave him a bottle of milk, and started baking. Nothing fancy mind you; I can't deal with a pastry bag at 2 am. But I made a fantastic banana bread that I've been perfecting for a few weeks now. As I chopped the chocolate and smashed the bananas, I felt lighter and my anger eased gradually. By the time it came out of the oven I was feeling zen like and hungry. My son quickly gobbled it down and went back to sleep shortly thereafter.

This simple recipe comes from Elana's pantry, a great gluten free site. My adapted version is below. Happy baking.

Shut Up And Go To Bed Banana Bread

3 cups blanched almond flour

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp baking soda

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup agave

1/4 cup grapeseed oil

3 eggs, whisked

1 tbsp vanilla extract

2 - 3 mashed bananas

1/2 cup chopped dark chocolate or 1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
Combine almond flour, salt, baking soda and sugar in a large bowl
In a separate bowl, combine agave, oil, eggs, and vanilla
Mix wet ingredients into dry. Add banana and chocolate.
Add batter to a greased and floured 9 inch cake pan
Bake for 30 - 40 minutes. Note: If you are using a convection oven, test the cake after 25 minutes.
Remove from oven and cool

Image: federico stevanin / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

On the List: Aromatics

2009-12-20T22:00:00.008-05:00

Ah the list. How I admire and envy the folks who are organized enough to always document their shopping lists each week. The same people who diligently stick to their budgets, clip their coupons and their guns, and plan their meals well in advance of preparation. Unlike me who is always in a panic/need of a special spice or a specific grain which I forgot to write down and I guess I could make it next week but oops I bought all the produce for it...you get my dilemma. Same schtick, different week.

Short of intensive shock therapy, I doubt I will ever completely change my ways. But I do have one trick in my grocery bag that keeps me going, a set of standards that I purchase every week no matter what. Of these, my most important are the aromatics: celery, carrots, and onions. They are named for their wonderful scents, which are particularly sweet and mouthwatering when cooked together. When properly stored, they last for a long time. They are incredibly versatile and flexible, and did I mention they are cheap as well as highly nutritious? Every week they automatically go in the cart, boosting my confidence and balancing my budget.

A few notes on purchasing: I do not like the stores to choose for me; it is a little patronizing and tends to yield less than perfect produce. So my advice is to look for the whole vegetable in an unbagged, uncut, and loose state. If you can find things with the leaves on top, even better. Don't get me wrong - I am no purist and sometimes we all need to compromise, especially if you are shopping with two crazy children screaming for gogurt. I am just saying, try this if you can. Don't buy a bag of vegetables; select the ones that look best to you and put them in your own bag. Each week I buy 3 onions, a bunch of carrots, and a bunch of celery.

I also like to mix it up. If they are selling rainbow colored carrots, I am all over it. Sometimes I prefer red onions to yellow, or even scallions or leeks. Vidalia onions are always a treat. And if you can find celeriac, please give me a call because once you peel the damn thing it is delicious.

Once you get them home, cut them up. Peel the carrots, and then cut the tops and bottoms off, slicing the remainder in half. Same with the celery. Put it all in a tea towel or a plastic bag with a paper towel. Add to the crisper. As for the onions, peel and cut them into eights, then add them to a plastic bag with a paper towel and set them next to their carrot/celery brethren. If you don't have time to peel the onions, leave them on the counter and out of the fridge.

And now to cook. Here are three easy things to do with aromatics all week long:

Fine chop them and add greens, tomatoes, chick peas, flax seed, and dressing.
Rough chop them and add to 12 cups of boiling water, along with 2 pounds of chicken bones, salt, and pepper. Lower heat to simmer, cook for 1 1/2 hours, and you will have delicious chicken broth. Discard solids. Serve with steamed carrot coins, dill, and egg noodles.
Mince them and saute in 2 tbsp of olive oil for 10 - 15 minutes, until soft. Add 28 oz of canned, whole tomatoes. Mash tomatoes, add 1 cup of red wine, salt, pepper, and 1/4 cup white sugar. Simmer for 20 minutes and serve with pasta.

Enjoy every bite, and please leave me a comment below about your own experiences with aromatics.

Images: FreeDigitalPhotos.net

20 years

2009-12-01T01:44:00.028-05:00

This week-end marked a milestone for me, my 20 year high school reunion. I had hemmed and hawed about going, worrying if I had anything in common with these people anymore, bemoaning my weight, and delaying purchasing tickets. Now that it is over, I am only sorry that I hesitated, because I had a blast and it was well worthwhile.

Waistlines were bigger and hair was smaller (in some cases non-existent). Some folks were married with children and others were single and fabulous. I met lots of other stay at home moms, and envied folks with big careers. I loved seeing all the smart kids, and learning about what they were doing. Lot's of attorneys, doctors, financial services gurus, accountants, small business owners, and teachers.

One friend later remarked about how many people seemed trapped in the high school mentality. I smiled and agreed, but later thought about it. He and I were both floaters in high school, friends with everyone and never bound to a single group. It was the kind of thought we probably would have shared 20 years ago, and it still stands today. And that of course means we were also still in our high school mode, on the inside but still outside. I suppose it was natural for all of us to gravitate to our former roles. The cliques still buzzed like little hives. Some other folks seemed to be holding court. And some folks were still aiming to please, seeking approval from others who then and now would never acquiesce. Finally, I also saw and experienced a lot of forgiveness to and from people who may have hurt me/been hurt by me. Past transgressions were overlooked or even transcended in the spirit of evening.

I have to thank my husband for attending with me; as Jen Balaban (now Fritch) remarked, he deserves a gold star for enduring it. It was also great to have a neutral party there, someone who wasn't part of my high school experience but knows me so well. It was like having an anthropologist on hand to observe. On the way home we were chatting in the car and exchanging observations. He remarked on how large our class was - 700 something people in all, of which probably 150 - 200 turned out. He also noticed how diverse we were, which I guess was less common in the eighties than it is today. And then he said something that was so kind, so generous and will stay with me always.

"Julie, you always talk about how much you admire people who can light up a room, people who draw others in and around them. What I saw tonight was a bunch of people who look at you like gold, who just loved you and root for you no matter what."

So now you all know why I married him. But it was true, not just for me but for all of us. The friends we had back then really stay with you always, even if you never get to see them but for once every 20 years. There is a staying power that comes with shared experience, and it ultimately translates into long term albeit hazy bonds that cannot be severed. I remember fine details about friends from Warnsdorfer Elementary School, Churchill Junior High, and East Brunswick High School; their brothers and sisters, their parents, our teachers, the smell of the classrooms, field day, dances in the gym, parties, where they went to college, football games, the first day of 7th grade, East Brunswick Soccer Club, Farrels, Bella Pizza, trips to Luray Caverns, TAG, IPLE, Ms. Trabilsy's (later Eichorn) wedding, the Metropolitan Club, the fly in Ms. Merli's classroom, Mr. Kenny's ex-wife and antics, scrunchies, Mr. Hanley and chorus, bar/bat mitzvah's, sweet sixteens, crazy science teachers, the Constitutional competition, Model UN, and so much more. No matter what, I will always remember these folks, and am glad that we had one evening to reconnect. Class of 1989, it was great to see you - I wish you all the best in your lives, and thank you for the memories.

Want to share something about the reunion? Leave me a comment below and tell me about it.

The Best Guest

2009-11-23T22:19:00.004-05:00

I love being the hostess. But what I love even more is being hostess to a great guest, you know the kind everyone loves to have in their home. The gal who tells good jokes. The guy who makes everyone smile. The couple who gently takes your screaming 3 month child in their arms and kindly offers its parents a chair and a drink. Good guests are hard to come by, and once found are treasured like nothing else I know.

While I am an excellent hostess, I have had to study to become a good guest and in doing so have found that I have ultimately attracted better company to my own table. Maybe it is just a coincidence but I like to think it is good karma that as my guest skills have improved, so have my own hostessing fortunes.

The best guest never:

Argues with the host or the other guests.
Smokes in the house.
Drinks red wine when there is white furniture nearby.
Brings their pet.

The best guest always:

Arrives on time. Never 15 minutes early, when I am mental with last minute details and still in my bathrobe. Never more than 30 minutes late, after things have started and then complains that there are no more appetizers.
Puts everyone at ease. A great guest comes right in and makes you feel at home in your own home. They can put others at ease, diffuse difficult situations, and fill pregnant pauses with comfortable conversation.
Offers to help. I love it when someone comes over and offers to help put things out or even better clean up. They always get my love and respect, and lots of extra dessert.
Brings a small gift for the host/hostess. It is just common courtesy, and does not have to be a painful exercise.

Regarding that last point, the key to a good gift is being thoughtful. Don't bring a great bottle of wine to an alcoholic's home. No flowers for asthmatics or the highly allergic. Rethink that ham for the vegetarian. You get the gist.

Once you know the no-no's, think small, homemade, and fun. Here are some of my favorite recipes for the successful guest - enjoy and have a great holiday.

Spiced, Candied Pecans

Ingredients

1/2 cup of light corn syrup

1 tsp of cayenne, chipotle, or ancho chili powder

1 lb shelled pecans

Sea salt

Turbino sugar

Method

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place parchment paper or foil on a large, rimmed pan.
Place corn syrup and chili powder in a large bowl and mix. Let stand for 5 minutes.
Add pecans to the bowl and mix.
Spread the pecans evenly on the parchment paper or foil. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and turbino sugar.
Bake for 15 minutes. Cool and serve or place them in a decorative jar with ribbon.

Gravlax

Note: Please note that this recipe needs to be refrigerated for 3 days before serving.

Ingredients

2 1 lb fillets of salmon

1 tbsp black pepper

1/2 cup kosher salt

1/2 cup sugar

1 bunch of dill

Method

Place the salmon fillets side by side. One each fillet, place 1/2 the pepper, salt, and sugar.
Place the dill on one fillet and top with the other.
Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Place in a rimmed pan and weight the salmon with a heavy object (I like to use a Le Creuset pot top). Place in the refrigerator.
Chill for 3 days, turning the salmon over nightly.
Slice thinly and serve the salmon. For parties, place on a nice platter with small boiled potatoes and Greek yogurt.

Hummus

Ingredients

1 lb of dried chick peas or 2 cans of chickpeas

1/2 cup of tahini (you can find it in the supermarket, usually near the peanut butter)

1 lemon, juiced

2 cloves of garlic

Sea salt

Black pepper

Method

If using dried beans, soak them overnight. Rinse beans and place in food processor.
Add tahini, lemon juice, and garlic. Pulse food processor 20 times, or until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste.
If you like, try any or all of following additions to the food processor: 1/4 cup of roasted red peppers, 1 tsp ancho chili powder or 1 tbsp lemon zest.
Serve on a platter with pita bread and fresh vegetables.

Meat and Poultry Matrix

2009-11-15T01:04:00.020-05:00

When did meat become so complicated?

Trying to figure out what to buy and why has become a full time occupation for me. I spend hours at the supermarkets and online reading labels, researching ingredients, and making the best decisions I can. Some of them are pricey and some are dicey, but they are the choices that my family lives and eats by, so I try to get it right.

That being said, I am most stumped by meat and poultry. So much misleading and conflicting information, coupled by the fact that all research leads me to conclude we should be eating less and less of both. What I have learned can be summed up as follows:

Most supermarket meat is not from a farm, it is from a factory. The animals are treated badly; they live horrible lives in confinement and are killed in a cruel manner. And most importantly, the factory lifestyle generates unhealthy meat and poultry. The animals are chocked full of antibiotics and other medications, they are mixed and matched Frankenstein style, so it is impossible to trace where they came from, and they tend to be filthy.
Unless grass fed and pasture raised, organic and/or free range meat does not provide much relief from the above. They are fed a slightly better diet (although organic cows still are fed corn and not grass, which is really unnatural), but generally live in the same crappy conditions and have very similar problems to non organic factory meat and poultry.
Grass fed and pasture raised meat and poultry is the best way to go, but it is very expensive and difficult to come by. Often it needs to be shipped and therefore has some environmental limitations. But this is outweighed by the other environmental, humane, and gastronomic benefits it provides.

To manage this, I only cook meat twice a week. I try to only use grass fed, pasture raised, and organic products. And I try not to purchase any of this at the supermarkets. I have decided to try and track the products that I have tried, in an effort to keep my research straight. Here is my high level meat and poultry matrix that documents what I have found.

Do you have any additional information for me on this topic? Comment below and let me know - I will be updating this post and the matrix on a regular basis.

Sour Grapes

2009-11-03T23:19:00.014-05:00

For those of you who follow NJ politics, our fair city of Hoboken has a new Mayor. Dawn Zimmer will hold office for the next four years, and hopefully restore credibility to our local government. I have great faith in her and her team, and for one am very excited and proud of Hoboken for electing such a smart, honest, and capable woman to the office. It feels like we have cleaned out our cabinets, rid ourselves of the stale and pale, and started fresh. Congratulations Mayor Zimmer and best of luck in everything you do.

That being said, a word about the losers who have run less than appetizing campaigns. In particular, I would like to cite Beth Mason for the most consistently expensive, divisive, and bizarre campaign I have ever witnessed, TWICE. As you my loyal readers know, this site is normally reserved for tales in and out of the kitchen. Beth honey, this one's for you.

Recipe for Disaster

Ingredients

1 lb horse steaks, butterflied (technique where meat - otherwise too thick to cook properly - is sliced into dual, conjoined sections)

Directions

Using a mallet or other blunt instrument, beat horse until tender. Beat it some more. Beat it one more time, attempting to sever the link between the two pieces.
Place meat on a broiler plate. The meat will cook in its own fat.
Heat the broiler on high. Cook for 4 months or until charred.
Plate on a silver platter. Serves less than 25%.

The Three C's

2009-11-02T21:13:00.009-05:00

It seems like everyone out there is DIY - it's time we take on step back in the alphabet and CIY - Choose, Cut, and Chop It Yourself. In the land of the kitchen, convenience reigns for many of us, myself very much included. I will do anything to save time and to undermine the schizofrenia of trying to cook while preventing my kids from destroying the house/killing each other. But lately, I have been reconsidering some of my more sloppy practices, and trading up for healthier living.

Now I am not a big red meat eater - I generally save it for the big holidays, and then maybe every other week we have kind of ball/loaf/chopped meat kind of dinner that hangs on as leftovers and lunches for several days. Meatballs and spaghetti is a classic example. I have taken various shortcuts; sometimes I use jarred sauce, sometimes I buy angel hair pasta so it will cook faster. Very rarely will I purchase chopped meat, because of all the e-coli scares (did you SEE this NYT article - a girl became paralyzed from eating a HAMBURGER). When I have bought ground beef, I have purchased it at highly reputable places like Trader Joe's, telling myself that I can trust them. And I do, but not so much so after today's news. It turns out they are buying from massive factory farms like everyone else, and that their ground beef is sourced from the same place, and as risky as the merchandise on sale at Price Chopper. Not a warm and fuzzy.

So that is it - I am writing my way toward healthier living, and sharing with you my resolve to do better. I am going to fully and consistently implement the following CIY practices, all of which can be illustrated with minimal pain. I have been doing this most of the time anyway, but from now on, no more shortcuts. If you come to my house for dinner, feel free to audit me on any of the below:

Choose it yourself: I don't buy pre-chopped fruits vegetables anymore for the simple reason that I don't believe they are the brightest or the finest. Rather, I am fairly certain that the stores and suppliers are chopping second rate produce and we cannot tell the difference because, well, it all gets mixed up together. Buy a bag of onions, carrots, and celery each week. Chop them up when you get home and use them as you need them. Another example: Don't buy canned, chopped tomatoes - g-d only knows what is in there. If you can't buy them fresh, at least buy them whole.
Cut it yourself: Don't buy parts. If you want to eat chicken, buy a whole chicken and cut it yourself. It takes a little practice, but honestly it is a) cheaper, b) the best way to ensure that you are getting the entire original bird and not some frankenstein mix of chicks, and c) key to sleeping better at night knowing that the bird was less handled than its counterparts, and therefore a less likely to have been passed food bourne bacteria.
Chop it yourself: Don't buy ground anything. Just don't. If you are a meat eater, try to buy grass fed, pasture raised meat and poultry, cut it into 1 inch squares, put it in the Cuisnart, and pulse 10 - 20 times, until them meat is loose but not pureed. Chuck and sirloin works for ground beef. I prefer dark meat for my ground turkey.

Do you have any other suggestions for better living? Leave a comment below and tell me all about it.

Chick peas a la Noonie

2009-10-22T00:39:00.007-04:00

I have always had great affection for the chick pea, since I was a little girl. We would go to the Seville diner in East Brunswick, NJ where they had installed a new salad bar, which was a big deal in the 80's. Anyway, the salad bar was enormous, filled with every possible fresh fruit, vegetable, and homemade combination possible. I would walk up, circle three times, and then promptly fill my entire bowl with chick peas. And then go back for seconds. It made my mom crazy, but I just loved them so much.

Imagine my surprise as an adult when I learned you could BUY them in the store and have them in your own home, whenever you wanted. They became my favorite treat, a pick me up for rougher days when I was feeling down and chocolate just wouldn't do. They are creamy, nutty, soft, and incredibly addictive.

When I was pregnant with my first daughter, I developed a mild case of gestational diabetes. I had to test my blood 4 times a day, check in with the endocrinologist, eat more frequently, and make significant dietary changes. While some were less than pleasant (Splenda) there were some nice surprises, particularly that beans apparently can act as a natural sugar regulator. I gave it a try and would eat 1 cup of chick peas mid day (love those NYC salad bars), an hour after my morning snack and before my main lunch. Lo and behold, steady and low sugar levels.

Since then, chick peas are no longer a treat for me, they are a staple. I eat them often, almost every day, and prepare them for my family at least once a week. Below is my favorite chick pea recipe - it is a riff on the Indian dish Chana Masala. I love double up and to serve it over chana dal, dried baby chick peas that you can find in most Indian grocery stores. Give it a try, and enjoy.

Ingredients
1 large yellow onion
5 plum tomatoes
2 cans chick peas/garbanzo beans
2 tbsp canola oil (or as you like)
2 tsp Garam Masala
1 tbsp + 1 tsp tsp California garlic powder or 8 cloves fresh garlic
2 tsp dried ginger or 1 tsp fresh, grated ginger (ginger is optional)
1 can tomato sauce (15 oz)

1 tbsp sugar
1/2 cup water or milk

Directions
1) Chop onion. Chop and seed tomatoes. Rinse and drain chickpeas.
2) Heat oil on Medium in a large saute pan. Add onions and garam masala. Saute for 5 - 7 minutes, until onions are soft. Add tomatoes, garlic, ginger and saute another 3 - 5 minutes.
3) Add chickpeas, tomato sauce, sugar, and 1/2 cup of water or milk. Simmer for 20 minutes.

Serve hot with any of the following:

Baby chick peas (Chana dal)
Trader Joe's Harvest Grains Blend
Basmati rice
Trader Joe's brown rice medley
Plain whole milk yogurt
Freshly chopped cilantro, mint, or parsley

French Onion Soup

2009-10-13T21:39:00.015-04:00

The wind was blowing, leaves were falling, and all I could think was "Man, I have got to get me some french onion soup." This time of year always makes me crave comfort, and for me french onion soup is comfort incarnate. I love the sweetness of the onions, the smooth melted cheese, and the delicious broth that warms me from head to toe instantly, even on the chilliest afternoons.

It has always been a staple recipe in our house, but this year is different. Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur have just ended, and a new year is upon the Jewish community. I was not raised kosher. I never intended to live that way. But as I have gotten older and wiser, I find myself wanting to adopt a more kosher lifestyle, and have been taking small steps to bring myself in line. This year, one of my New Year resolutions is to take bigger steps. I will buy kosher meat whenever I can find it. Neither pork nor seafood can enter my oven. I will not cook milk with meat. And I will do all of this consistently and with conscious diligence.

But that onion soup beckoned....

My mouth watered at the thought of it as I walked home past the leaves just turning, the last rays of sun peeking through the late afternoon sky. To my mind, french onion soup evens looks like autumn; the yellow of the onions, deep reddish brown of the broth. Mmmm, so yummy, so cold outside, so...wake up dummy!!! No milk with meat. There had to be a way to reconcile my resolution with my appetite. I thought about soy cheese, but am generally opposed to faking real ingredients. I don't make Passover cookies with matzo meal cake flour; I'd rather have meringues. What was an earnest girl to do?

Coincidentally, I recently ordered a used copy of an out of print cookbook by one of my favorite authors, Rozanne Gold. Every once in a while she still pops up in Bon Appetit, but seems largely (and sadly) out of the mainstream these days. I have several of her other books, but wanted to treat myself for the new year and purchased Recipes 1-2-3. Her premise is simple; no more than 3 ingredients in any given recipe (exceptions: water, salt, pepper). Not that her recipes are easy; rather they are adventures in the spare, yielding luscious results with what seems like very little.

As I glanced through my book on that first cold day, I found the answer; Red Wine French Onion Soup. This ingenious technique replaces beef broth with a wine based, white pepper infused, buttery broth that is rich, delicious and completely dairy.

Here's the original recipe. I have modified it slightly, but kept to its spirit. Enjoy, and please send me any tips you have as I move forward with my kosher efforts.

Red Wine Onion Soup

2 lbs sweet onions

3 medium leeks

4 tbsp unsalted butter

1/4 tsp sugar

1 cup red wine (she recommends cabernet sauvignon, or other like full bodied wine)

6 cups of water

2 1/2 tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp white pepper

6 oz Gruyere cheese, shredded

French bread, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds

Peel and halve the onions. Slice thinly, about 1/8 of an inch (this works best if you use a mandoline or the slicing disk attachment on your food processor).
Rinse leeks. Select the white part and chop finely. Discard greens.
Melt butter on medium heat using a large cast iron or stainless steel pot with a lid. Add onions. After 15 minutes, add the sugar and the leeks. Continue stirring for another 20 - 25 minutes. Scrape brown pieces with a wooden spoon. The onions are ready when they are a deep yellow/brown color.
Add wine and cook until most of the liquid is evaporated, about 10 minutes. Continue stirring throughout.
Add water, salt, and pepper. Bring to boil, cover, lower heat, and simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove 2 cups of soup and blend. Return liquid to pot. OR, use your immersion blender directly in the pot - pulse 10 times. Cook for 10 more minutes.
Turn on the broiler. Place ceramic crocks on a foil lined, rimmed baking sheet. Fill each ceramic crock with soup. Add 2 - 3 croutons and 1 oz of cheese to each bowl. Broil on a top rack for 2 - 5 minutes, until the cheese is golden brown. Serve.

Mommy needs a drink

2009-10-01T00:00:00.000-04:00

I have always been a teetotaller, from my college nights through my big 4 consulting days. That is until I had children.

It started with my daughter's all nighters followed by the all day efforts to seem conscious at work. I started to swipe small doses of my husband's coffee just to see what it was like, and honestly it was pretty friggin fantastic. I had more energy than the electric company, and that kind of high end coherence is addictive. So much so that I ratcheted my intake up to 3 or 4 cups a day and began requesting Starbucks gift cards for all occasions.

And then of course came the accompanying shakes, as well as the stress from trying to manage-while-conscious a husband, 2 children, a cat, mortgage payments, a career, and being a decent person most days. My insomnia returned full force, and after several nights I was desperate. Nothing worked, not even Benadryl. Enter alcohol, which had a wonderful way of taking of the day's edge as well AND rendering me unconscious. I'd have a drink, nurse the baby, and then we would both take a nap. I could manage to my days and nights, my tired past and (hopefully) restful future.

And so my caffeine and cocktails got me through two children, nursing, and being a working mom. All was well until I lost my job last December. Three weeks later, my son was diagnosed with cerebral palsy. Shortly afterwards I went on Zoloft. You see, coffee and booze helped when I needed to manage my sleep because a baby was always crying and waking me up. It did not help when I woke up because I was crying; nope, that is what Zoloft is for, and thank goodness for it. Taking the meds does not prohibit me from indulging in either, but it is not recommended, and honestly I was uncomfortable having too many competing influences in my bloodstream.

Fast forward to today, and more than 10 months have past. I am still unemployed; helping my son has become a full time job, one I am proud to do. He is making much progress and getting lots of help from people I know and work with closely. In addition to his incredible physical advances, my son is so much happier and more independent than he was last year. He is one of those super charismatic kids that everyone can't help but notice, with a cheerful energy that just lights a room. It wasn't always like this; there was a time when he could not be put down for more than 5 minutes at a time without screaming bloody murder. Today, if I put him down for 5 minutes he scoots straight for the stairs and determinedly climbs higher and higher chanting "Up, up!!".

In fact, it seems like my entire family is moving on up. On the first day of school, I was there holding my daughter's hand. We eat a home cooked meal most nights, and the kids are eating every night by 5:30. All the details of our previously running on empty lives seem more manageable. We don't run out of diapers or wipes. Packing lunches is less of a hassle. There is a lot less dry cleaning.

I don't know when I will go back to work; the market stinks and honestly I am much needed here at home. My life has changed in ways I never anticipated, and my routines have changed with it. That said, I am rarely drinking coffee or alcohol but miss it every morning and evening, especially on the rougher days. Every "Mommy I hate you" makes me gaze longingly at the wine, and each nap strike is just one step away from the Dunkin Donuts. I still have bouts of insomnia and irritability, and my life is far from perfect.

Despite this, I feel better than I have in a long, long time. I am no longer jonesing between stimulants and depressants; I do not have to choose between conference calls and parent teacher conferences. I set my own priorities, and while there is a financial price that comes with this, the overall rewards are exceptionally gratifying. For the first time, I am living my life in the present and I am celebrating the moments of my life.

Sweet and sour

2009-09-23T22:04:00.010-04:00

“Joowley. Yur Grand Muthah cawled. Cawl her back.”, read the note from my college roommate.

I laughed while imagining her initial shock at hearing my Nana’s voice for the first time, all Brooklyn and all business. It was fall and I knew she was calling for my annual re-instruction on how to make her famous stuffed cabbage, and g-d help the poor soul who did not expedite the message to call back. A powerful bleached blond beehive of a woman, my grandmother was part of the great Brooklyn-Florida exodus of the seventies. Most of our relationship was spent on the phone, and much of that was kitchen talk. In my mind, I can still hear her lessons.

“Make sure you use brown sugar”, and of course “I don’t like raisins in it. Feh.”

Every year she would urgently remind me to be to be careful with the leaves. Always proprietary, she was annoyed but I think secretly proud when I updated her recipe and incorporated the 2^nd Avenue Deli’s method for prepping them. She would have been even prouder this year when I did the same with Julia Child's method.

My Nana was an exceptional cook and hostess. But she was not an easy person. She could be exceptionally warm and loving one moment, and then unbelievably cruel and cold the next. My memories of her are a confluence of this dichotomy, and I have spent many years reconciling them. Nana lived her life as she made her stuffed cabbage, sweet and sour. I miss her all the time, but never so much as when I catch a whiff of those holishkes every Rosh Hashanah. Below is her recipe, which is strange for me to see on paper. Prior to this post, I only had it in my memory and heart. Enjoy every bite.

Stuffed cabbages

1 large head of green cabbage, cored (savoy cabbage as seen here is best - ask for it at the grocer)

1 ½ lb ground beef

2/3 cup of rice (you can use any white rice – I like medium grain)

2 eggs, beaten

1 tsp salt

½ tsp pepper

Sauce

30 oz (2 cans) tomato sauce

1 tbsp lemon zest (finely grated)

3/4 cup of lemon juice, freshly squeezed

1 1/2 cups light brown sugar

6 tbsp white or cider vinegar

1 1/2 cups finely chopped apples

1 1/2 cups finely chopped onion

1 1/2 cups of tomatoes, peeled and seeded

Fill a large stockpot with 2/3 full with water and bring to boil.
For savoy cabbage: Peel the cabbage leaves off one by one and put them aside. When water is boiling, place 4 - 6 leaves at a time in the pot and blanch for 3 -4 minutes. Remove and lay them on a tea towel to dry and cool. Repeat until all leaves are cooked. Cut and discard the thick ends/spines.
For all other cabbage types: Stick a long fork (one with a rosewood or like handle) into the cabbage and gently place in water. When leaves will become soft and start to fall off, carefully remove them one at a time and place in a large, flat colander. Return cabbage to water and repeat until they are all done. Place the colander in the sink and then pour the water from the pot over them. Gently spray the leaves with cool water. Cut and discard the thick ends/spines.
In a large bowl, combine chopped meat, rice, eggs, salt, and pepper. Finely chop remaining cabbage leaves and add to mix.
Lay a leaf out carefully and place a 1 inch oval ball of the meat mixture at the top. Roll top of leaf over meat, and about halfway through, tuck in both sides of the leaf. Continue rolling until you have a small, tight package. Do this for remaining leaves/meat mixture. If you have any remaining meat mixture, make small meatballs and set aside.
Begin layering; I use a 7 quart Dutch oven which generally yields three layers. Add 10 oz tomato sauce, a pinch of lemon zest, ¼ cup lemon juice, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 2 tbsp vinegar, 1/2 cup apples, 1/2 cup onion, 1/2 cup of tomatoes, and 1/3 of the chopped cabbage or remaining meatballs. Place stuffed cabbages on top of this but do not crowd them. Repeat until you have three layers.
Add water until just filled to the top of the last layer. Place on stovetop and bring to boil. Lower heat, cover, and simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Correct sauce with salt and pepper as you please.
Plate, and serve with egg noodles or boiled potatoes,

Note: Stuffed cabbage ages well and in my experience tastes better if it has a chance to sit longer, making it the perfect make-ahead meal. If possible, leave it in the fridge for at least 24 hours before serving. To reheat, warm in oven using shallow aluminum trays covered with foil.

Rosh Hashanah with Julia

2009-09-20T22:42:00.038-04:00

I love to host the holidays. Nothing gives me more pleasure than planning, marketing, preparing, and entertaining for these special times, and I have established a tradition of going a little over the top for the occasion.

I also loved the books Julie and Julia as well as My Life in France. Both inspired me to swipe my mom's old copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking and happily start practicing. That was 2 or 3 years ago, and my appetite was rewet when I heard the film was coming out this summer. It inspired me to begin planning Le Marais, or an all Julia Child tribute to Rosh Hashanah.

In many ways the planning was consistent with other themes in my life. For example, we live in a very small place, so much so that for every item we bring in, another needs to move out. It's a real house of cards and sometimes frustrates me to no end. But there is a wonderful economy that comes from living like this. We are bound by our limitations, and so when we go furniture shopping, we have to look high and low for something sized within reach. I can't just purchase that cute little serving dish that caught my eye because there is no where to put it and I am not ready to sacrifice what I already have. It seems that having fewer options leads to better choices, as well as less wasted time spent searching. The entire Le Marais exercise echoed this bit of wisdom.

So now that you know I like to be challenged by boundaries, here were my self imposed rules:

We don't keep kosher Per Se, but we do try to keep a Jewish home. I do not mix milk with meat, nor do I cook seafood or pork in my home.
The main dish would be meat and needed to have apples listed in the ingredients.
There had to be enough food for at least 6 - 8 people, with room for an additional 2 if necessary.
There had to be a kid friendly option on the table.
At least one baked desert was required, because I am a masochist mental case.
All food had to be based on Julia Child's recipes.

Now, all of those rules are daunting to even the most fearless cook, but by far the most challenging was number one. JC is all about dairy. To wit, I usually make challah bread once a week using a stand by recipe that has worked for years. Like most challah recipes, it has only parve (not dairy, not meat) ingredients like eggs, oil, and flour. Julia Child has a lovely challah recipe from in Baking with Julia, but it calls for unsalted butter, more unsalted butter, whole milk, and cream. 'Can't she just call it a brioche and a ^&$&% day', I muttered under my breath as I tried to reconcile with my rules. I reread the recipe, and while I could not use it verbatim, I was able to glean from her Method and improve the challah, especially by double egg washing the loaves while baking. And so I learned how to make a better bread, as well as manage the rules of the game.

After the bread planning, I decided to start by searching for a main dish recipe that met my requirements, knowing I would pair everything else accordingly. Rule 1 eliminated more than 90% of the recipes in Mastering The Art of French Cooking (MtAoFC) volumes I and II. Rule 2 left me with a single wonderful option from MtAoFC vol I (p 275), Caneton Roti a l'Alsacienne or Roast Duck with sausage and apple stuffing. I had made the master recipe before with great success, but the apple and sausage stuffing were just over the top. I used a chicken and apple sausage that beautifully complimented the apples, sage, cognac, and port. Two ducks took under two hours, made a wonderful main dish, and my house smell like heaven on earth.

Once I had nailed down the main event, I tackled the next challenge...stuffed cabbage. Now stuffed cabbage is a Rosh Hashanah tradition that goes back to my grand-mother Esther Steinberg-Levy, who handed me her recipe when I was in high school and went to her grave trying to help me get it right. She made it sweet and sour with apples and lemons, and it is a family favorite. Julia Child has an eight page recipe for Chou Farci in MtAoFC vol II (p 379), complete with sausage and ham for the stuffing and several methods. The gist of the primary approach is to dismember an entire cabbage, reconstruct it in a pan with layers of stuffing, and present it 'whole' for family and friends. Unfortunately, this requires the dish to be served as soon as it is cooked, eliminating the convenience of cooking the cabbage in advance. I get crazy right an hour or two before the guests arrive; the last thing I needed is some last minute cabbage debacle to unhinge me completely. Therefore I stuck to Nana's recipe, but used Julia's alternative method. First of all, I am always getting a savoy cabbage from now on..what a difference. Never again will I boil a whole head of domestic cabbage and burn my first three layers of skin while peeling it. Also, her wrapping technique which is beautifully illustrated, made for a much tighter roll. Maybe next year I will try the mold.

To satisfy rule four, there was apple and honey on the table, as well as her Risotto/Pilaf/Pilau recipe (MtAoFC vol I, p 532). Substituting oil for butter did not detract from the wonderful taste, and to boot I molded it into a rice ring per her suggestion. To serve, I placed the stuffing from the duck on the center and garnished with parsley - fabulous, and my daughter ate it with gusto.

Petites Oignons Aigre-Doux/Sweet and Sour Onions Braised with Raisins from MtAoFC vol II (p 410) paired beautifully with the duck and met my unspoken rule of making little pearl onions that my husband loves so much. The flavor of the vegetable is enhanced by dry mustard, white wine vinegar, tomato, thyme, and bay leaf. And I knocked out rule 5 with a gem from MtAoFC vol I (p 671), Gateau a l'Orange/Orange Sponge Cake. A very simple dessert that has NO DAIRY whatsoever - no substitutions required. I topped it with JC's apricot glaze, and then rounded it out with almond bits on the side. I could have put it in a box and sold it at Carlo's Bakery for twenty bucks.

It was a wonderful dinner, with great food and company. Everyone, including me, was impressed with the fare. At one point though, one of my guests remarked about how time consuming it was to cook JC's recipes, how complicated they were. Hilda is my sister in law's grand-mother, a shrewd woman with a terrific sense of humor. We love having her in the family, and she always brings something to the table. When she heard about the menu she told us a story about her JC experience.

"I remember it took all day to make those recipes." she told us in her thick Germanic accent, "When it was done, it was delicious. And I thought 'Never again'! "

This is one of the few times where Hilda and I will disagree; while it was time consuming, I cooked 5 recipes in a single day and everything came out wonderfully. This is in part attributable to my wonderful husband, a quiet hero who who took charge of cleaning and watching the kids while I focussed on the food. But help aside, I was able to do a lot in a limited period of time, and for that I thank the author. I love the simplicity of Julia Child, especially compared to her more contemporary peers. There are no excessive ingredients or mysterious techniques; everything is laid out in a way so that the cook feels confident, like Julia is rooting for you. I understand why Julie Powell was so taken by her, and how the entire world loved her so very much. My guests should expect more events like this, and I suspect that they will happily come back for more. Next time I will wear my pearls.

Shopping for the fishes

2009-09-01T02:41:00.000-04:00

Funny for a town where so many sleep with the fishes, so few can successfully shop for them.

Hoboken, NJ is a place where you can order sushi delivery at 2 in the morning, but finding a fresh tuna steak is as rare as an uncorrupted Hudson county official. All the fishmongers went out years ago. Every once in a while I will walk past an oceanic themed building, begin to get excited, and then realize it is relic of days gone by, an empty storefront (or a nail place that never redecorated). We are across the river from one of the largest fresh fish markets in the world, but to the untrained eye seemed doomed to Mrs. Paul's. I don't think this dilemma is unique to my little town. Much of America resides inland, and away from large lakes, rivers, and other sources for fresh fish. But I do think it is extraordinary that we are right on the Atlantic Ocean and cannot muster a storefront for her harvests.

Subsequently, we have adjusted like most of the country and are therefore subject to the tricky business of frozen fresh fish. To clarify, unless it just came in from a local fishing boat, most "fresh" fish is frozen. The best is frozen right on the fishing boats, and then defrosted only once it hits the stores. After that quality often goes downhill based on how frequently it is defrosted and then refrozen. There are a few telltale signs such as how clear the eyes are, how shiny the scales seem, and the redness of the gills. But most of us are not purchasing whole fish these days - it's a lot of work to de-bone and gut them, and honestly unless it is a holiday or the Mayor is coming for dinner (esp Mayor Dawn Zimmer), who wants to make the time? Most folks are buying fillets and steaks, and in this case only the nose knows. My rule is if it smells like the ocean, it's worthwhile. If it smells like rotten fish, then it is. Trust your instincts.

Over the years I have found a few worthwhile options for fish in and around town, as well as some that should just be thrown back. They include the following:

Sobseys (Hoboken): Old school charm with a small selection, great quality, and high prices. It is not my first stop for fish, but I do pick some up occasionally when I am buying their terrific produce.
Garden of Eden (Hoboken): GoE has a nice little counter in the back of the store. The fish seems fresh frozen, and they have a nice selection. Be prepared to pay a premium for these amenities.
A&P (Hoboken): I have to give them credit for hosting one of the few manned fish counters in the city. The people who work there are helpful and seem nice, which is why I get so frustrated with their products. Everything I have bought there has seemed of a lower quality than my other haunts. I have had inconsistent luck with their salmon, but other than that cannot recommend them. On a catty note, someone get some Glade from aisle 5 please.
Whole Foods (Edgewater): A grand fish counter of yesteryear awaits you. There are several staff members who are generally helpful, although they don't seem to do well with custom orders. Good selection and fairly pricey, which is consistent with the rest of the store. I like that you can find whole fish here, as well as many eco-friendly options not available at all stores.
Trader Joe's (Edgewater): TJ's does not have a manned counter but they do have a wonderful fresh frozen fish selection. The fish comes right from the boat and is defrosted for the first time when you slap it on your counter. I have had very good luck with everything I have bought, including wild salmon, tuna, and sole. Best of all is the price, which is significantly less than the competition. I always have some of their fish in my freezer for week-night meals.

Where do you buy your fish and why? Comment below and tell me about it.

Preschool lunch box lowdown

2009-08-25T09:08:00.006-04:00

Back to school is upon us and of course so is the lunch box frenzy. Anxious parents are everywhere, searching for the perfect solutions. Preschool in particular can be harrowing, as it is their first time eating away from you and it means ceding a little control. I remember sobbing as I packed that first lunch, mindful of how much my baby was growing up. I wanted it to be flawless, and labored accordingly. In the end, it is just lunch, and the most important thing is that kids learn to have it together.

Getting them ready to eat at school is also a challenge. You can have a rehearsal play date to help kids transition. Reading about lunchtime at school is another effective strategy; my favorites are Bread and Jam for Frances by Russell and Lillian Hoban and Morris Goes to School by B Wiseman.

Below are some tips that served me well for my first year of preschool lunch. Be brave, good luck, and enjoy every moment. Feel free to comment below and tell me all about your own experiences.

On the outside:

Avoid metal lunch boxes. They are heavy, easily damaged, hard to clean, and readily re-purposed as weapons. Personally, I prefer the cloth ones with an insulated lining, which you can wipe with a damp cloth. The bento boxes are cute but come with lots of pieces that are easily lost. Brown bags get smashed and easily confused - a big deal if you have kids with allergies or other food concerns.
Get a back-up or two. We went through four lunch boxes last year, all of which mysteriously disappeared on the way home. Trying to buy a lunch box in April is like trying to get pregnant in your sixties - it's a little late and probably not such a good idea. Although if you do find yourself in this pickle, Amazon.com did have some slim pickings available.
Given the above, do not spend more than $15 on a lunch box. $12 if you can manage it.

Rules and regs

Assuming the school has a microwave, try not pack to anything metallic that needs to be reheated. Glass is great but make sure it is shatterproof. Plastic is fine if you can live with the risks.
Try to avoid peanuts, sesame products, and anything on the allergy alert list. Kids swap lunches and then some; it is a nice courtesy to the other parents and school.
Anything messy will end up all over the kids and their teachers. Avoid the unnecessary drama.
Do not pack candy. The kids get crazy and their teachers will be annoyed. Give them a small treat like a handful of graham crackers or one cookie. Anything else is over the top.

On the inside

I love little thermoses (thermi?). Not only can you save money and mother earth by packing them water instead of a juice box, but in the winter you can also pack some warm soup.
Keep healthy side staples on hand, like cheese, crackers, Cheerios, and yogurt. Rotate them, and toss in one or two in every day.
Always pack a fresh fruit or vegetable. My best luck has been with celery, carrots, apples, strawberries, melon, and grapes. Clementines are a big hit when they are available - they love to peel and eat.
My best success entrees include basic grilled cheese, hard boiled eggs, pasta wheels with cheese, rice with vegetables, tomato soup, and pizza.
Try to make it fun. Make eyeballs out of egg slices. Put fruit on a stick (with dull edges) so they can pull it off piece by piece. Throw in a small package of bubbles.

Recipe: Basic grilled cheese sandwich

2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted

2 slices of bread

1 oz of cheese (any)

Brush both sides of bread with butter.
Place cheese in the middle of the slices.
Add sandwich to a frying pan and heat on medium for 2 minutes.
Flip, and heat again for another 2 minutes.
Cool sandwich.
Slice and wrap in wax paper.

Tip: Make it fun by cutting it into fun shapes with cookie cutters. Place the cookie cutter in the middle and press down. Slice the outer edges into equal pieces.

Despite the blight: Adventures in heirloom tomatoes

2009-08-23T19:27:00.013-04:00

"My kingdom for a good tomato", I muttered a few months back. Summer had arrived but alas my beloved nightshades were just beginning to flower. I was sick of the cardboard substitutes imported from g-d knows where, and hungered for a ripe, juicy gorgeous tomato to call my own. July was particularly unsettling, when reports of the record blight seemed to doom this year's crop. A non-event for the general population, the news sent me straight to the medicine cabinet for some Valium. Honestly.

Despite the blight, I have found some wonderful tasting tomatoes this year. Albeit pricey, as witnessed while on vacation where at one farm stand they weighed my single, impressive find to the tune of $7.50. Even I have my limits, although I do think about the one that got away from time to time and wonder what if.

Today however, all the elements aligned and I found fresh, succulent, and well priced tomatoes at the 10th annual Hoboken Heirloom Tomato Festival. Vendor Catalpa Farms delivered a wide range of goodies, including purple peppers, red oak lettuce, farm fresh eggs, and of course, tomatoes. I counted more than 20 varieties on hand, and sampled as many. Favorites included Yellow Brandywine, Striped German, and Prudens Purple. I also liked the tomatillos and heirloom cherry mix. More than anything, I enjoyed being in the company of my fellow tomato-philes, none of whom blinked an eye when I packed up 7 1/2 pounds to take home. At $3.99/pound, it seemed like a bargain.

I arrived home with my loot, which my husband eyed suspiciously. I heard him muttering something to himself about the fridge real estate and rotten tomatoes, but no matter. All would be right come dinner time. In addition to the produce, I brought home a terrific tomato and garlic dip which I enjoyed with crackers. Once sated, I kept thinking about how I would make it, and proceeded to experiment for a good part of the afternoon until I came up with the below recipe. I used the Prudens Purple variety because they are sweet with a nice texture that works well against the cheese, but I am sure Roma's would work too. Now for the other 6 1/2 pounds....

Smoky tomato garlic dip

1 lb of tomatoes (2 or 3 medium size tomatoes), seeded, cored, and rough chopped

6 cloves of garlic

2 tomatillos, rough chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

8 oz cream cheese

2 oz goat cheese

1/4 - 1/2 tsp of chipotle pepper (Do this to your own taste. Note: you need to let the flavor bloom for at least 10 minutes before you really can gage the level of spiciness.)

salt and fresh pepper to taste

1 tbsp finely chopped herbs (I like parsley or cilantro)

Preheat oven to 425 degrees (roast setting). Combine tomatoes, garlic, tomatillos, and olive oil on a foil lined pan. Roast for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.
Add ingredients from step one to a food processor and pulse 10 times.
Add goat cheese and cream cheese, and process until smooth.
Add chipotle pepper, salt, and freshly cracked pepper. Pulse twice.
Top with fresh herbs and serve.

Lost and found

2009-08-18T12:32:00.053-04:00

My mom,daughter and I wandered around like the mother and child reunion, on a relentless quest for farm fresh eggs. Perhaps this sort of fecund adventure should have aligned our bio-rhythms or at least our stars, but it was not meant to be.

I consider myself to be geographically dyslexic; if I need to go right, I go left, if North I go South. Even with the GPS gently reminding me, I invariably get lost (and tell it shut the f*!! up). So when I have no real directions as was the case today, it can be a little harrowing for me and my passengers. The farm is located on a major road but no number was given. We finally stopped for directions and after a few confused tries, the woman at the pharmacy broke out into a smile, "Oh, you mean the place behind the lumber yard...", of course I did! which is where we went. There were no chickens among the 2 x 4's, and just when feeling doomed to be lost and eggless, we spotted the discrete sign near an impossibly small path.

We wound out way down, passing a lake with ducks and then cows grazing on sweet pastures, finally stopping in front of a large chicken coup. 30 - 40 red hens were cheerfully clucking hello from inside, while a few rebels wandered around the farm giving me sudden and clear understanding of the term free range. Our moods were lifted, and we began to poke around. My daughter hopped out to chatter with the animals, as my mother and I looked for the farm stand. Again, there was a sign with prices, but no people or produce or eggs. Lost again, I wondered if the hens would accept a check.

Up the road was a house with several large sheds surrounding it, one with what looked like the wooden frame of a boat in progress. Debby Farber, co-owner of the farm approached me curiously and explained that the stand is self serve. Eggs are in the first fridge, meat is in the adjacent freezer, just tomatoes and beans today, put the money in the box and write down what you took in the log under the calendar. We wandered back, grabbed a dozen brown eggs, put $4 in the box, and set out for home while explaining to my daughter that the hens needed to nap.

The kitchen is one place where I do not feel lost, but fresh eggs are new to me. I had always heard about what a pleasure they are, how different from store bought, but never cooked with them. The three of us wandered in the kitchen and set out to make omelets. I used Julia Child's recipe (http://www.savory.tv/2009/07/29/julia-child-omelette/) in honor of the Julie & Julia film. It was one of the first recipes I tried after reading Julie Powell's book, upon which I swiped my mother's MtAoFC and began cooking in earnest. I have made this recipe a dozen times and while my flipping skills can use some attention, the final product is generally quite good.

As I readied the eggs, I immediately noticed a difference in the shells; they were denser and broke cleanly, with a more satisfyingly loud crack. The yolks were a deeper yellow than I am used to, and blended together with the whites beautifully (this despite the fact that I did not add water per the recipe). As for the omelets, well JC never had it so good. The eggs were more fluffy and rich. The entire thing was easier to handle and flip. And there was a faintly sweet odor that made each bite a little more savory.

My mom and I sat down together to enjoy our lunch. We agreed that omelets sure beat boxed cereal as a last resort dinner. We compared notes on the food and mused over why people don't cook these at home anymore. Was it the lingering effects of the 90's cholesterol scare, laziness, or ignorance? My mom taught me and my brother to cook; what happened to everyone else in my generation? I read a lot about the farm we visited today; where were all the other foodies? Michael Pollan seems to think cooking has become a spectator sport. Julie Powell recently asked her fans to blog their favorite MtAoFC recipe; the majority commented that they loved her work but never attempted to cook anything JC. It seems like something larger has been lost, the art of the home cooked meal in America.

Unable to solve the conundrum, we eased back into small talk. It had been a while since we had eaten eggs together, and the aromas coupled with the company brought me back to my childhood, to her kitchen where I happily played and learned. I spied my daughter giddily watching, eager to revisit tales of the coo-coo chickens while my past and future seemed to keep time with each other. We are staying at a vacation rental, but at that moment I truly felt at home.

Note: Blackwater Farms is located at Lambert's Cove Road, behind Cottle's Lumberyard, West Tisbury, MA. If you are visiting Martha's Vineyard, I recommend giving it a try. Worth the trip.

Milking It for What It's Worth

2009-08-14T23:46:00.026-04:00

I felt like a science fiction porn star. Two funnels were attached to my breasts, trailed by yards of tubing that led to the MACHINE, also known as a breast pump. The MACHINE ceaselessly and loudly and efficiently pumped my milk into 2 small bottles which I clasped tightly, yielding about 6 ounces after 20 minutes. Now, to the uninitiated, that might not sound like much but you try strapping this thing on four times day (twice at work in a conference room without a lock), literally sucking the life out of you as you try to preoccupy yourself with anything that does not require your hands. It is easier to give yourself a bikini wax.

Let's face it, breast pumping sucks. It was worse a generation ago, it will be better a generation from now, but for the time being it sucks. I remember my brother coming over for lunch to see the MACHINE (we had viewings) and staring at my hospital grade rental. "It's a piston", he stammered, then unable to eat the meal I had lovingly prepared. And so it was, a crappy bot designed to help me feed my children. I also nursed whenever possible, supplemented with formula, and tried to get them on solids as fast as I could. And I would do it again, because for me this was the right combination, the right amount of effort. But had you asked me about my feeding plans a week before my first delivery, that would have been a different story.

I was a text book, 1970's, bottle fed, formula loving baby. My mom took care of me and my brother that way, and I did not see any reason to do differently. My feelings were exponentially confirmed whenever I came in touch with any of the Lactation Specialists/Nipple Nazi's that chanted breast is best and were one haircut shy of the Krishna's. Their obsessive message of intolerance for any other method fed my determination not to nurse. And then there was the delivery.

The first two days in the hospital were as planned, my daughter happily bottle/formula fed. All was on track until my last mommy class. The Nazi went through the usual speech, and then listed all things breast feeding could help achieve (Harvard admissions) as well as prevent. I felt myself tuning out until she said Crohn's. Crohn's is in our family, and is painful to consider; I would have done anything to prevent it. I went back to my room and called for a consult. An hour later later there was colostrum (Inverted nipples, wouldn't you know). Two hours later there was the MACHINE.

I have always been short and busty. But this was no ordinary time; when I went to get measured for a nursing bra I clocked in at 36K. Even my OBGYN was impressed. The store had to order me extra large funnels for the MACHINE, and even they seemed inadequate. Hauling these things around for 8 months was no easy task; I felt like a circus freak waiting for the bearded lady to join me at any moment. You would think that mammoth as I was, the milk would have flowed, but no it came at the same pace as my A cup friends. In fact, it probably caused the pumping sessions to go long, thanks to the extra plumbing.

The MACHINE came to rule our lives. One morning it broke, prompting me to scream for help. My poor husband was woken from a sound sleep and came frantically running to see what was wrong. "Are you sure it's broke?" he asked. "Am I sure? Am I sure?!! Listen to it, can't you hear that the rhythm is off, it's all I can hear night and day is this MACHINE.", I ranted, panicking at the thought of the MACHINE being down while my husband's wooden ears enraged me further. Looking back, it was so wholly integrated into our routine that even though I despised it I could not imagine life without it.

My children are now 4 and 18 months, and my pumping and nursing days are behind me. Despite the time gone by, and all of the history as written above, I still long for the days when I held my children while nursing them. I am not nostalgic for the MACHINE but do miss the satisfaction of being able to provide so completely for them. It is really the most intimate form of local farming. I think it has also affected me in the kitchen today, where I beat myself up every time we serve hot dogs and feel best when I am feeding them something right from the garden. I am compelled to constantly chop and cook, shop locally and require fresh fruit and vegetables with each meal and snack. My husband drew the line when I expressed interest in a make your own yogurt machine, but that's OK because I am pretty sure I can fake it with some whole milk and a dixie cup.

Did you nurse, pump, or bottle feed? How has it affected your later cooking experiences? Comment below and tell me about it.

Faking It

2009-08-14T15:40:00.008-04:00

Whenever my Mom comes over she is always accompanied by a large bag from TJ Max or Marshalls, full of things for the kids. She does a lot of shopping, and every once in a while I will throw in an actual request. So it came to pass that camp was starting and my daughter needed water proof shoes. My mom picked her up a pair of the real deal, the kind used by channel swimmers, meant to stay on in the ocean and and more than adequate for the light sprinklers and water tables available at camp. My daughter wore them for about a week, and then started lobbying for Crocs. I finally gave in for her birthday, and for the last week of camp she had her dream shoes.

Now we are on vacation and the ocean beckons. A pair of water shoes would be just the thing, and of course I left them at home, my daughter forced to crunch around the flotsam and jetsam, her Crocs useless. And so I ask why is it that no matter how well prepared I am, no matter how much I plan, I am always without the one thing I think I need?

So it goes in the kitchen, where I have learned to adapt more readily than the other rooms in and out of the house. Yesterday was raining, and we ran from place to place, stand to stand, trying to keep the kids entertained. I came home with some strawberries, baby squash, and flowers. I sliced the berries for the kids, placed the flowers in a plastic pitcher, and faked the below side dish. Now if I could just learn to do this outside the kitchen...

When have you faked it and why? Please comment below.

I Faked It Baby Squash

2 tbsp olive or canola oil

1 lb of baby squash, sliced thin (about 1/4 inch. Zucchini would probably also work here)

salt and pepper to taste

1 lime, sliced in half

2 tbsp rice wine vinegar

2 tbsp chopped fresh dill

_________________________________________________________________

Heat oil on medium in saute pan.

Add baby squash, and saute for 5 - 7 minutes, until just soft.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Squeeze 2 lime halves over the zucchini and stir juice into squash. Cook an additional minute.

Add rice wine vinegar and stir. Cook an additional minute.

Plate squash. Sprinkle dill on top and serve immediately.

Sweet

2009-08-12T11:43:00.005-04:00

She snuck through the door with the stealth of a cat burglar, quietly entering the room and approaching the bed. I hear her little girl footsteps and lie there quietly, hoping to catch her the act, of what I have no idea. I hear her breathing excitedly, clearly she has a plan. She comes to the edge of the bed, takes a deep giggly breath, and climbs up. Suddenly I feel her hands playing with my hair and stroking my forehead. "Sleepy mommy" she whispers. This goes on for a few amazingly sweet minutes, as I lie there completely happy but still wondering about her plan when it occurs to me that this is the plan. This is it, lying next to her mother and being close to her, that is all it takes to make this wonderful child happy. She gives me one last pet and then tumbles back into her room.

A few minutes later I find her there, under a sheet, watching a movie. She thinks I am her father. "Go away Dad" she chuckles, burrowing under the bedding. I tickle her foot and she laughs but resists. "Go away Daddy. No bike ride", she says, anticipating what comes next. I grab her tummy and let her have it. She is now breathless with laughter, and lifts of the sheet, surprised to see it is me with the long fingers. We pad back into my room and I give her choice. "Bike ride with daddy or grocery shopping with me." The negotiations begin. "I want to take my bike", she begins, knowing well that my husband is planning to take them in a cart that attaches to his bicycle. She just learned to ride 2 days ago and is ready for the big leagues.

"Sorry, maybe the next ride."

"OK, Mommy, ok. If I go to the supermarket you can get me an ice cream cone, ok? Alright". I smile at her tactics, "I'll think about it, but you need to get dressed."

"I want to wear my butterfly shirt." Long pause. "Bike ride"

We get dressed and come downstairs, where her brother greets me with a big smile and scoots into my arms. The kitchen smells, well, used. My husband smiles, "I made pancakes", he says to my disbelieving face. "I'm an Eagle Scout you know", he gently teases as he takes the baby from my arms. They are all off together on the bike, bound for adventures that are for their eyes only. This is their time together.

I stay behind and have a pancake. They are actually pretty good, blueberry. And then I look in the sink and see the used plastic bowl instead of the one good metal mixing bowl this vacation has to offer, which gleams on the counter untouched. The crappy plastic spatula lies in the sink, covered with batter while my top notch metal one sneers at it from the side. The tiny appetizer plate is crammed with pancakes while the platters lie untouched a few cabinets below. We don't always do things the same way, my husband and I. We are different creatures, in all things. He is a good, kind man that centers me and our family to this life, and despite that I am forever criticizing. Today the kitchen is a reminder of my limitations, a place that is usually stage for my strengths. But on this day I put my lesser instincts aside and am grateful for the whole package, and my entire life seems...delicious.

Don't Leave Home Without It

2009-08-09T23:33:00.020-04:00

The boat sails, the wind blows, and we are bound for the island. This year we are vacationing at Martha's Vineyard, the prettiest, most charming place on the planet. I love the flowers that spill from every corner, lagoons that drift between the bays, and smell of the briny ocean. So of course, the first place I head to once on island is...the kitchen. Yes, the kitchen.

Lady did you forget your meds you say? No, it's just that I love to cook, especially when away, and what makes my vacation rental a home is the kitchen. It's where everyone gathers at the end of a long, sun filled day. It's where the kids play and draw on rainy afternoons. It's where I bring my loot from the local farm stands and antique stores. And it is where I cook and dream all the time. I really enjoy learning my way around someone else's kitchen. There is something deliciously vicarious about searching for pots and pans, firing up an unfamiliar stove or grill, and serving on foreign plates. The smell of coffee brewing on someone else' pot. The hunt for sugar, flour, and other basics. Hidden treasures left behind waiting to be discovered, like real maple syrup, fine teas, unexpected spices, or a bottle of top notch hot sauce.

And yet...there is always something missing. It is unusual to find high quality kitchen items at a rental house; the owner's probably figure it is best to leave things out that may get broken or stolen. So you tend to get a lot of low rent dutch ovens with missing tops, 3 of the original 8 scratched plastic cooking utensils, and mismatched tin cutlery. And that is OK, because it is a vacation and only for an all to short while. But there are a few things that I cannot cook without, and must come with me wherever I roam. Here's what I bring assuming I remember and can fit it in the car:

Cutting board: With 2 young children, I spend a lot of time peeling and cutting things into teeny tiny pieces. That in addition to regular cooking requires a good board, preferably wood. The vacation house variety tends to be odd shaped and plastic, although this year we got lucky with a well sized maple slab. Doubly lucky since I forgot my board on the counter at home.
Knives: One for chopping, one for paring. If not, at last bring a small knife sharpener, as the ginsus you find in the drawer are going to be duller than a tax seminar.
Whisk: Nothing fancy, just a small whisk is all I need. My wrist gets tired from trying to fake it with the cheap forks.
Handheld blender: I love my little Braun Multiquick. It comes with an immersion blade, whip, and chopping attachments, all for less than $40. Covers as a blender, food processor, and mixer. Although I must say that if the house has any of these appliances I will try them; it is a blast from the past breaking out a LaMachine.
Grater: Again, keep it simple. Something thing and small that can grate cheese or zest a lemon. Trying to finagle one of those industrial four-sided graters in the car is a recipe for an angry husband and ripped luggage.
Tongs: Planning to make corn? Enough said.
Cookbook: I like to bring one or buy one when away. This year I took the Black Dog cookbook, which is nice and local, and has great summer recipes.
Spatula: I bring my large metal one with the thin but hard edge. Learned to do so the year I made pancakes while away, and could not flip them with the mother f*^$*(ing thing they called a spatula. Had to supplement with a knife. Never again.
Spices: You can usually count on iodized salt and some pepper. After that, it is hit or miss. I bring garlic powder, paprika, chipotle chili pepper, cayenne pepper, kosher salt, ginger, and cinnamon.
Oven mitts: How many times have I burned myself with the less than substantial gloves available at a rental? Enough to know better. Bring your own or if you forget, use it as an excuse to pick up some cute new ones at the local home goods shops. You were going anyway, right?

What do you bring and why? Comment below, and thank you for your feedback.

To Market, to Market

2009-08-07T02:23:00.002-04:00

Once upon a time in Hoboken you had two supermarket choices; the A&P on Clinton or the other A&P on Clinton (which is now CVS). Thankfully, those days gone and we have a wide variety of grocery stores to choose from. Wide to the point of unwieldy. In an effort to better understand the lay of the land, I have decided to put together a very biased, personal review of some of our local markets, their pros and cons, and what makes them stand out. As I begin this adventure, I'd like to ask for your feedback. Where do you do your local shopping and why? Comment below and join me on this adventure.

Iron Chef Hostess

2009-08-04T10:20:00.002-04:00

Highly competitive cooking shows are for amateurs. Don't get me wrong, I love to watch them. The frantic chopping, amazing equipment, ongoing pressure, and endless pantry are a site to behold and I love every minute. But come on guys, if you really want a food challenge, try preparing a holiday meal for your family and friends with young children at your heels. You think coming up with 3 recipes in an hour is tough? Try braising while nursing. Searing while soothing. Cooking while supervising.

I watch the Iron Chefs and laugh. Need a last minute chopped onion? Right away sir say the sous chefs who hurry to dice or mince a shallot, leek, or other variety on hand. In my house, I have to find the damn onion, clean the board, cut it up, and throw it in hoping it's not too late, all to the melody of "Mom!!!", "Mommy!!!", "He took my toy!!!", or just plain screaming from the baby. If attention is not paid, band-aid emergencies pile up. The floor gets covered with toys, and not the big ones - oh no, the little things that cause me to slip, trip, and fall. Thomas trains. Blocks. Small hairclips. Try cooking in a loud obstacle course. Where at the end of the show, it's not Jeffrey Steingarten doing the judging; it's your mother-in law - so it better be good.

Beyond all that, you're not just making dinner, you're making memories which will outlast the big event. The smell of my Nana's stuffed cabbage does not just make my mouth water; it makes me long to see her, to ask if I put in enough brown sugar, to show her how I am doing. My Mother's mushroom barley brings back memories of our kitchen with my Grand-Mother, who loved to eat the cooked onions and mushrooms and taught me to enjoy the whole as well as the parts. The warmth of a happy kitchen are some of my best childhood memories. I'd like to pass that on to my children.

Not to brag, but one year I piped, baked, and filled a full meringue tart with one hand while carrying my 3 month old son with the left. It was fabulous, and I felt like a combination of next Food Network Star and Supernanny. Here are a few tips and tricks that have worked for me.

Play with your food. I try to buy extra fruits and vegetables to keep the kids distracted. What you say? Yes, even if they won't eat them, they will play with them, especially if they see them in mass quantity. When my daughter was two, I made lemons into currency and would bargain. "If you eat your Cheerios, you can have two lemons" Worked like a charm.

Get crafty. Another technique is to make art projects. For Rosh Hashanah we go apple picking and come home with bushels of apples. I cut them in half and let the kids use them as stamps. Get a big piece of posterboard, some paint, and let them have at it. Accept the mess - it's worth it if you get 15 minutes to focus on what you're doing. You can even use the result as a decoration.

Enlist the troops. Kids like to help in the kitchen. Give them age appropriate tasks. Let babies play with old pots and pans. Toddlers can help stir, put the dishes in the machine, put candles in the candle sticks, and find ingredients from the pantry. They also may like to use their own kitchen toys - give them some whole foods to use as ingredients. Older kids can actually help do some prep, measure, read from the cookbooks, and set the table. And everyone loves to taste. Solicit opinions whenever possible. Let them lick the bowls to their heart's content.

Think ahead. If you can, try to have holiday appropriate activities for kids on hand during the meal. Get extras, and use them for emergency activities while in the kitchen. Some ideas include tattoos (always a hit - get frog ones for Passover), coloring books, stickers, oragami for older kids, gardening projects, etc.

The more the merrier. It helps having other adults on hand in the kitchen. Invite friends and family over. If they have kids it turns into a big playdate. You can share the responsibility for cooking and watching the kids, as well as the results. This works especially well with things cooked best in quantity like brisket or gefilte fish.

Mary Poppins got it right; "In every job that must be done there is an element of fun. You find the fun and snap! The job's a game." I call it the spoon full of sugar school of cooking. Kids get excited when they see the drama in the home kitchen stadium. Manage them well, and you will be rewarded.

Resources:

http://www.jewishcrafts.com/

http://www.judaicaforkids.com/index.php

http://www.orientaltrading.com

http://www.oytoys.com/